Daily Skin Fix

How I look natural, polished and beautiful every day with cheap, quick, and natural makeup

I really, really hate to get up in the morning so I am usually running late. I definitely prefer a natural look for my skin, and as I have said many times before, it is much better to have good skin and wear less foundation so that is what I do. I can’t wear eye shadow. Ever. I have sensitive skin, called atopic– which means that many things irritate it like brushes, strong fragrance etc and I live in extremely dry climates. No matter what I do, no matter what kind of shadow or brush I use, my eyelids get irritated, red, and rashy if I ever wear eye shadow for even one day, and they stay that way for months after even one application of eye shadow. Also, I use a retinoid (currently Refissa) and of course daily sunscreen on my eyelids and have for years. So the lids are actually pretty good and tight for 57. So I haven’t worn eye shadow or eyeliner for years. Again this fits with my philosophy that I would rather have good skin on my eyelids, than wear cosmetics on them. They actually look better without shadow or liner.

Since I am always running behind in the morning, I want my cosmetic application to be quick. I want them to stay on all day. I rarely touch them up during the day, except that I sometimes reapply lip color once during the day. Once is my limit. And I hate to shop so I want something I can either buy online, or pick up when I absolutely have to go to the drug store or grocery store. There is absolutely no way I am going to drive to the mall and shop at the cosmetic counter. It is fine if you like to do it. I don’t.

My goodness the list of things I hate is getting pretty long….hate to get up, hate to shop, hate to reapply makeup, hate to style my hair, hate to dress up. Oh, well.

So I use, in order of application:

1. Clarins Self Tanning Instant Gel to my face and neck about 3 times a week. It gives me a natural color, isn’t sticky, dries quickly, and I can also apply to my body if I want. Since I use our Correcting Serum, Antioxidant Exfoliant, and Refissa my skin is nicely exfoliated so the tanner goes on smoothly. Applying self-tanner to exfoliated skin is the key to getting a natural look. I buy it online at Sephora.com (4.4 oz $33)

2. Then I apply Dr Elaine’s Antioxidant Mineral Powder in Tan with applied with one of our sponges that we supply free with the powder. It gives a great, natural finished look that I love. I never use a brush to apply mineral powder. I go get it from the storage room, but you can buy it on our web site or in the office. (.32 oz $32.99)

I blend it down my neck and be sure that I pat it on the eyelids and the inside corners of my eyes. Then I take a 100% cotton ball and blend it into the hairline, and wipe the excess of my eyebrows.

3. I do need lip color and I have a great find that I have been using for about 5 years. It is Cover Girl Outlast All-day Lipcolor in #556 Berry Preserve. The box comes with 2 lip products–a color and a moisturizing topcoat. The color is called All-Day Colorcoat and the topcoat is called, appropriately, Moisturizing Topcoat.

It really does stay on all day! This color is great for me and looks very natural. I load the applicator, but then wipe the excess off against the rim. If you apply too much it does flake later in the day. Then I apply the topcoat. I have tried many of the other “all-day” lipsticks, many expensive lipsticks, over the years. This one is by far the best for me. About half the time I will apply it once again after lunch, if I am work.

I get it at Walgreen’s. (2.3 ml and the set is $9.99 but fairly often you can get 2 for price of one at Walgreen’s and then I stock up) But note: you are not allowed to go to the two Walgreen’s I frequent–on Georgia in Amarillo, Texas or on Tatum and Shea in Phoenix Arizona–and buy it all up! Use your own Walgreen’s, or another drug store or the grocery store. I don’t go to those places.

4. Then I curl my eyelashes before I apply mascara. If you curl them after, like you are often told to, you get more lash breakage. But I heat the eyelash curler and it curls the lashes just like a hair curling iron. I use a Shu Emura eyelash curler heated with a hair dryer on hot but tested for temperature on my wrist just like a baby’s bottle. It makes the curl last all day. You do have to be careful because the metal heats up quickly, and if you apply it too close to the skin you could burn yourself.

My lawyer wants me to remind you not to heat it up like a hot poker and stab yourself in the eye and then blame me. He says you should do this at your own risk.

But it works.

Shu Emura really is the best eyelash curler, I order mine online from Sephora.com ($16.00).

5.Maybelline Great Lash Mascara Classic Volume Brush #100 Blackest Black. I use the straight brushes, I don’t like the curved ones, and don’t need them because my eyelashes are already curled. Sometimes I will splurge on Maybelline The Colossal Volum’ Express (sic, weird name, I wouldn’t have chosen it) straight (non-curved brush). Occasionally I will use the waterproof if needed, like for graduations, funerals or swimming, but for daily I use the non-waterproof. The waterproof ones do dry the lashes a little more.

You really don’t need expensive mascara. If you want to pay $40 for a tube, go ahead, but it is not any better than Maybelline. Really.

I buy mine at Walgreen’s ($5.49)

6. Recently I got a little carried away with eyebrow tweezing. I know, I am always going on about my pet peeve, tweezing too much. Guilty as charged. So when I do, I use Smashbox Brow Tech – Taupe/Soft Brown eyebrow powder and apply it with Smashbox Angle Brow Brush #12.

I order it online from Sephora, and for confidentiality it comes in a plain brown wrapper ;)

Smashbox Brow Tech ($34.00), Smashbox Angle Brow Brush 12 ($20.00)

7. For special occasions I apply our Mineral Glow in Blushing Shimmer for a subtle glow. .32 oz ($32.99)

So that is it. I timed myself this morning and it takes me 3 minutes, start to finish. Quick, reasonably priced, reliable, products easily obtainable, and lasts all day. Mission accomplished. Natural, polished and beautiful every day.

A little paint and spackle can work wonders, but all the makeup in the world can’t make bad skin look good.

It is by far and away better to have good skin, than good makeup. With that in mind here are Dr Elaine’s top 10 rules for wearing cosmetics:

1. Heavy foundation may cover a pimple, but it makes you look older, and harder. A million times better to have good skin, and wear little or no foundation. So I put my time, energy and money on my skin.

2. There should be evidence to the naked eye that there is live human skin under your foundation. Ditto for blush.

3.  Concealer on pimples or marks plug up pores and cause breakouts later. Don’t just kick the can down the road.

4. Most women need some lip color, either their natural color if they are lucky, or with a lip color product if they are not. But lip color should always approximate a color that is seen, somewhere, in live humans. Bubblegum Pink and Bright Maroon are not in that group.

5. Corollary–blush color, if used, should also approximate a color that actually occurs in live humans. Fuchsia and Burnt Orange are not in that group.

5. If you use lip liner, it should be subtle enough that you don’t look like you are playing dress up with Mommy’s lipstick.

6. For everyday, eye shadow should not include the color family robin’s egg blue. For nights and special occasions eye shadow and eye cosmetics can be more dramatic and artificial. That is because in those situations eye shadow is subconsciously classified as “decoration” closer to jewelry, while lip color, cheek color, and foundation remain subconsciously classified as “natural beauty.”

7. Foundation on oily skin often turns more orange as the day progresses. Choose accordingly.

8. Don’t buy cosmetics based on friendship with the company rep, unless the cosmetics are really right for you.

9. Spend the most money on getting the perfect, natural looking foundation. That is the trickiest for cosmetic companies to do right. Mascara absolutely, lip color often, and eye shadow a fair amount of the time are just as good from the drug store as the expensive brands.

10. Try very hard to find the “sweet spot” with your makeup and cosmetics. The sweet spot is in between wearing no makeup at all and looking like you just got out of the hospital but are still ill, and wearing so much makeup that you could make some extra money while waiting at the bus stop to pick up the kids. The “sweet spot” is where you look natural, polished and beautiful.

Next: How I look natural, polished and beautiful every day.

Where in the world is Dr Elaine?

If you have been wondering where I have been, I have been “on holiday” in Australia for the past 3 weeks. And having a wonderful time, except for the fact that my laptop has been having a mid life crisis, which kept me from posting on the blog.  Why it is having a mid-life crisis I don’t know because it is not even really its mid life yet. It did, however, have an unfortunate electrical “accident” on the flight to Australia. Since then it has been alternating between not turning on at all, refusing to load Windows, wanting to “restore” to original factory settings, and being just fine. I suspect that zombie aliens have turned it into a forward outpost since they contacted it on the plane. Either that or the lithium-ion battery needs more lithium.

Additionally, my experience with Australian internet access can be summed up in two words– “it sucks.” Slow, very expensive charges for a small amount of data/time, and prone to technical problems. I am sorry if I hurt your feelings Australia, but you know it’s true. So true in fact, that an ad for a beach condo rental states “Fast internet… well, fast for Australia.” Unless you were hiding the fast, cheap internet from me just like you hid the coffee. Note to Australia: when an American orders “a large, black coffee, no room” this is what they mean–they would like a large cup, containing hot water that has been brewed with ground coffee beans, and filled to just under the rim rather than 3 inches below it. If we say “with an extra shot” that means to add 1-2 oz of concentrated coffee containing caffeine to the mixture so that it approximates the strength of a cup of regular American coffee. Looking at me as if the words “large, black coffee” are in some obscure dialect (unless you consider Texas to be “obscure”) will not move the line along any faster, or keep tourists away.

I did get the impression that a lot of Australians don’t really like Americans, and was surprised that the societal structure is closer to western Europe than I had thought. But even with that I think we have a lot in common and it is a beautiful country that I want to visit again. As soon as they get the coffee and the internet thing straightened out.

Anyway, the laptop debacle made me realize several things:

1.  I am dependent on the data in my laptop
2.  Backing up data on a regular basis is important (yes, I already do it routinely)
        a.  But, when your backup is in another country it is not a great deal of help
3.  An emergency boot disc really is a good idea
        a.  Less so if it is across the international date line from your malfunctioning computer
4.  Fast, reliable, cheap internet access is a gift for which I should be thankful

I know, all of this seems totally unrelated to the topic–what kind of cosmetics this cosmetic dermatologist uses. And to some degree it is, but I am on a 13 hour flight back to LAX and the experience brings to mind my philosophy about cosmetics–that I want the same thing in my cosmetics that I want in my digital life–fast, reliable, reproducible results; good value for the expense expended; readily available when I need it; mainstream enough that it is not an ordeal to find, buy, and replenish it. Basically I want to set up a system and not have to put a bunch of thought into it on a day to day basis. Keeping up with trends and advances, yes, but on an upgrade schedule that I determine, not a hasty, emergency response to a catastrophic system failure.

So here goes: Dr Elaine’s top 10 rules for wearing cosmetics

Your skin can’t take a joke–so don’t tell it one

Hair and nails forgive and forget. But skin is something else again. It doesn’t forgive and it doesn’t forget. So, I do take care of my skin, and pretty well too. And I have for a long time. That is because skin holds a grudge. If you don’t take care of it , it goes bad on you, and at least some of the damage is irreversible. You can fry your hair, color it blue, lose it from going off birth control pills or after pregnancy and it recovers. Hair just says “whatever, and it grows out just fine. And the kind of hair problems that are really frustrating are not from anything that you do, they just happen, like alopecia areata, and the scarring hair loss diseases.  You can have chipped and damaged nails from working in the garden, you can abuse your nails from wearing acrylics and, within reason, they can recover. Unless you damage the matrix or the nail bed, then you gotta pay. But your skin remembers every unkind thing you ever said about it, did to it, or didn’t do to it (like protect it from sun damage). It really can’t take a joke.

So here is what I do. And I do it every day and every night, without fail. And yes, I use my own line of skin care products, Dr Elaine’s Advanced Skin Treatment, almost exclusively. After all, I developed them, and they are full of both high quality botanicals, marine actives, other natural actives with specific purpose, and various cosmeceuticals including alpha and beta hydroxy-acids, peptides, antioxidants, and vitamins. Since I developed them exactly the way I wanted them, this should  be no surprise to anyone.

My morning routine–First I get up, reluctantly, then:

1. Three days a week I use Dr Elaine’s Antioxidant Enzyme Peel (1 oz 38.99). You have to use it when your skin is completely dry. So I do it the very first thing, I don’t wash my hands or face, and I apply it in a very thin layer. Key word is “very thin” and then I let it sit 30 seconds with my hands in the air, without rinsing them, until the peel liquefies. Next I rub in a circular motion and exfoliate the dead skin. Then I rinse with clear water. I love this product because the papaya, grape seed, and willow extracts in it gently exfoliate without granular particles with the end result that my face reflects light well and glows, but it still allows me to use the retinoid Refissa without the increased irritation of a granular exfoliant.
2. Since I have normal-dry skin, I wash with our Facial Cleansing Lotion (6.7 oz $26.99), using my fingers only, never a washcloth. I love this cleanser–it has glycolic acid to exfoliate, it cleanses well, removes make up and the combined group of natural botanical oils leaves my skin soft and smooth rather than uncomfortably tight.
3. Then I follow with our Gentle Toner (6.7 oz $26.99) applied with a 100% cotton ball. Since I have a tendency to get eczema, and use a fairly potent retinoid every night, I need to reduce the tiny microscopic abrasions that I would get from a synthetic “cotton” pad. I don’t need a drying type of toner, so I use this one that is not drying.
4. Then Dr Elaine’s Correcting Serum (1 oz  $59.99) 2-3 pumps for my entire face and neck. The two things that I feel should be used every day as a basic program, other than sunscreen, is either an alpha hydroxy acid or fruit acid, and a retinoid. Our Correcting Serum has both 8% glycolic acid and a multiple fruit acid complex to exfoliate and promote collagen production, and hyaluronic acid to plump wrinkles and balance moisture.
5. Next I apply Dr Elaine’s Line Diminisher (1 oz $89.99). The peptides Acetyl Hexapeptide-3 and Palmitoyl-Pentapeptide 3 combined with hyaluronic acid help minimize fine lines, and antioxidant green tea calms irritation.
6. Then our Facial Moisturizing Cream ($41.99) in the winter or when I am extra dry or my skin is irritated, or our Hydrating Cream ($39.99) if it is summer or less dry weather. Moisturizers like the Facial Moisturizing Cream that are fragrance free are best if your skin has a tendency to irritation and you are using retinoids like Refissa.
7. Then I apply our Total Eye Renewal (0.5 oz $65.99) to my entire face. Yes, I know it says eyes, and I do use it on eyes,  but also on my face,  because the 3 peptides are very good, it has active Vitamin C, bunches of active botanical antioxidants and I really like the silky smooth effect from the shea butter and silicone base.
8. Then I apply DCL Super Sheer Sunscreen SPF 50 (2.5 oz $24.99) to  my face, neck, chest, forearms and backs of my hands every single day, year round, without fail. I really like this sunscreen because it covers a really broad spectrum of UV, and it is so light weight you don’t even know you have it on.

At  night, no matter how tired I am:

1. Dr Elaine’s Facial Cleansing Lotion
2. Refissa (by prescription $145) to face, neck, upper chest. I apply Refissa to back of hands and forearms every other or every third night.
3. Dr Elaine’s Total Eye Renewal ($65.99) around my eyes after Refissa.
4. Brush on Latisse to the base of the eyelashes (by Allergan–prescription $120 a 3 ml bottle) to grow eyelashes and make them darker–but I only apply it every other night or the lashes get too long and thick. That also cuts the cost, as a bottle will then go 2-3 months.
5. Dr Elaine’s Lip Therapy ($5.99) right before bed so my lips don’t get too dried out.

For Body:

1. Dr Elaine’s Calming Body Wash (12 oz $15.99) in shower which helps my dry skin.
2. Dr Elaine’s Smoothing Body Moisturizer (12 oz $37.99) every night. I am atopic, so my skin is sensitive and rashes easily. That means if I don’t apply moisturizer to my entire body I will itch all night and since I don’t want to do that I just go ahead and use body moisturizer every night. I love the scent, and also the powdery smooth feeling.
3. Then I put our Perfecting Hand and Body Moisturizer (12 oz $36.99) on my feet and heels right before bed. The glycolic acid and fruit oils, soften and repair thickened skin and cracks, and the Evening Primrose oil reduces irritation.
4. If I have been lazy and my heels are really bad I will use Ureacin-20 (4 oz $26.99)on them for a couple of nights. It works really well for thickened calloused heels, but leaves a thin white film on them, so I don’t do it in the daytime.
5. For a little color, in the summer or if I am going on vacation I will use Jergen’s Sunless Tanner ($7.99) for medium to tan skin (just means it has more DHA in it and I get color quicker) or Clarins Self Tanning Instant Gel (4.4 oz)

And that’s how I do my own skin care. I take care of my skin, and I don’t tell it any jokes.

Next: how I do cosmetics

A Baker’s Dozen–Care for your nails like a female skin doctor

This is my list of the favorite things a cosmetic dermatologist uses on her nails, hands and feet. I get the nail products at a beauty supply store, the rest at either Walgreen’s, online, or from my own skin care line.

1. Antoine de Paris #515 Nail Pusher (#5 pusher and #15 scoop combo tool) $25.00–the rounded end pushes the cuticles back and the scoop (looks like a tiny spoon) cleans under the free edge of the nails. I like the #15 scoop because the edges of the scoop are sharp enough to actually scrape the debris free so it can be removed. One (of many) of my pet peeves is dirt under fingernails.

2. Cobalt-Inox #12 Stainless Steel Box Joint Cuticle Nippers 1/4″ jaw (3 mm)–$25.00 One area where you need to buy more expensive, quality products is nail clippers and cuticle nippers. I always buy all my nail instruments from Antoine de Paris. They are high quality stainless steel, the hinge mechanism is crisp, the edges are sharp and remain sharp so cuticles can be clipped close, and cleanly. Too many other cuticle nippers just basically pull the cuticle off and then it gets inflamed. Since I pick at my cuticles if they are even the tiniest bit ragged, I want them clipped cleanly. And they last forever so I think their instruments are fairly priced.

No, I don’t get any compensation from them for recommendations. No one pays me anything for my online opinions and why is that I want to know?

3. Diamond Deb Nail File–$who knows? I have had mine for at least 15 years. They last forever, and have a medium and smooth side. It is very important to not use an emery board, or metal file that is coarse. Many of them are, and they fray the edge of the nail. Yes, they are quicker if you want to really shorten a nail, but you are better off clipping it then filing it smooth with a fine file.

Caveat: I have heard rumors on the internet that the new Diamond Deb files are a lower quality and more coarse, though you will be shocked to hear you can’t always believe everything you hear on the internet.

4. SFT Foam File–Fine and X-fine–$1.98 ea–I also use foam files, usually to smooth the free edge. But here is my pet peeve #2–Stop putting your brand name in embossed smooth, non-filing letters all the way down the file! I want to file my nails not have to try to find an area that actually has a filing surface

5. STN Foam Block–Blue-Fine and Extra Fine–$0.94 each–To smooth the longitudinal ridges and the free edge. As we age, we invariably get some ridging. To smooth it, buff the top of the nail side to side and lengthwise. Be careful, if you start to see white streaks and white areas at the end of the nail right before the free white tip, you are doing it too much and the heat from friction is separating the nail from the nail bed. You will get white discoloration and the thinner nail will split and crack more easily.

6. Pedi Egg–$9.99 The sides and bottom of the feet, and the heels often get thickened, scaly, split and gross. The biggest culprit causing this is wearing sandals, flip-flops, thongs (the mentionable kind), slip-ons and shoes with a heel strap rather than a full back. All of these repeatedly slap the bottom of the foot, the heels particularly. A callus-like reaction occurs to protect the skin, and you get those ghastly heels just when you want to have pretty feet. The sharp scraping blade side of the Pedi-Egg removes the bulk of the dead skin, and the sandpaper side smoothes the rest. Be sure to buy replacement blades and the sandpaper as they do get dull pretty easily. Don’t use this if you are diabetic.

7. Stickey Base Coat–by Creative Nail Designs (now CND)–$8.00 This green base coat really holds the polish to the nail plate. And while I am at it, if you go to a salon for a manicure, make sure they let you scrub your nails with a brush, soap and water after they do the lotion massage and that they wipe any lotion/soap residue off the nail with alcohol before they apply the base coat. Pet peeve # 3 (of the day, I have more) is when the nail tech, especially at the more expensive salons, tries to tell me that I don’t need to scrub the nails to remove the lotion, she will just wipe them with alcohol or acetone. Uh, no–the polish then starts peeling off before morning.

8. Essie Nail Polish–Walk Down the Aisle (a sheer white) $8.00 Essie polish is my favorite, it stays on the best and resists chips. I like a semi-opaque light polish with blue undertones to disguise the yellow discoloration of my nails. The more intense the color, the longer it takes to dry and my patience for protecting the polish as it dries is extremely limited. Light polish dries a lot quicker, chips don’t show as quickly, and it looks professional in a medical setting.

9. Essie Good to Go Top Coat–$9.98 Same as above, dries quickly, resists chips, doesn’t yellow.

10. Oops! Made by some company with the last name “Professional”–$??? Because my patience with polish drying time is very poor, I often smudge or crease the polish before it dries. I use this product, which comes with a brush just like polish, run a streak down the nail, and it miraculously becomes perfect again. Unfortunately I can’t find this anymore, whatever is in it has eaten the brand name right off the bottle. If anyone can find this, let me know. No, it is not Oops!J by Jolin Tsai which looks interesting for a shattered nail polish effect. I can chip my polish all by myself,  thank you.

11. Seche Base Ridge Filling Base Coat $9.98 When I don’t have time for polish to dry but want to cover the discoloration, and look a little more finished, I use this. I usually use one or two coats, no base or top coat. It is a sheer translucent pearly white and lasts pretty well.

12. Dr Elaine’s Restore Hands and Feet  $20.99 My orthopedic surgeon husband complains that his hands are always chapped, dry and cracking because of the surgical scrub. So to stop hearing about it, I developed Restore Hands and Feet cream. The cold-filleted Aloe Vera base, Comfrey and Cucumber reduce irritation and allow healing,  antioxidants Rosemary, Calendula and Chamomile protect skin cells from environmental free radical damage. Jojoba and Beeswax relieve dryness by repairing skin’s natural moisture barrier. It is not sticky, and it smells divine, something my husband does not complain about. I use this on my hands and feet every night.

13. Dr Elaine’s Perfecting Hand and Body Moisturizer–$36.99 12 oz I also use this every night on my feet. The Glycolic Acid really helps prevent and treat the ghastly heel syndrome and Aloe Vera, Jojoba, Glycerin, Comfrey and Evening Primrose Oil, soften and naturally repair extra dry skin. It soaks in and doesn’t feel sticky and you can put Perfecting Hand and Body Moisturizer on, put your sandals on and go out.

Bonus 14. Ureacin-20 Crème $26.99 When I have been lazy and not used my Perfecting Hand and Body Moisturizer, and my heels are really horrible, I use Ureacin-20 Crème. It has 20% Urea to dissolve calloused skin, glycerin to restore moisture, mineral oil and lactic acid to restore softness. It works, but it leaves a white, sometimes flaky residue on the skin so use it at night before bed, not when you actually want your feet to look pretty.

If you find the original Oops! or have feedback on the new Diamond Deb nail file–please post it.

Next: Care for your hair like a female skin doctor

Choose skin care like a skin doctor:

Full disclosure: I am the founder of Dr Elaine’s Advanced Skin Treatment clinical skin care line, which I formulated and developed based on my assessment of the merits of various botanical extracts and cosmeceutical advances for an optimal anti-aging, acne, sensitive skin and body skin treatment program. Dr Elaine’s skin care is sold in my cosmetic dermatology practice and online at our web site, SkinTreatment.com. Of course, I am biased toward our skin care products, and use many of them daily, especially since I developed them exactly the way I wanted.

When I talk to patients about skin care, cosmetics and hair care, they often ask “what do you use?” and “why do you use what you use?” Because I am a female cosmetic dermatologist, I am expected to have a rigorously scientific analysis of the merits of each product I use. And to a large extent I do. However, there are additional factors that I use to determine which skin care, cosmetic, nail care, hair care, beauty equipment I purchase and use.

My choices are dictated by the following factors:

• Scientific evidence favoring effectiveness in prevention of skin aging, acne, and skin cancer. Since I know preventing skin aging is easier than reversing it, I am willing to use products that may only have benefits down the road. Luckily for me, I have used a sunscreen and retinoid (first Retin-A, then Renova and now Refissa) daily for the past 27 years.

• Scientific evidence favoring effectiveness in treatment of skin aging, acne and sensitive skin. I’m not impressed by the marketing “story”–you know, “this amazingly potent antioxidant, previously unknown to the world, from the fruit of the Friscascucia plant, found only in a remote region of the Himalayas, harvested lovingly by hand by barefoot, chanting Tibetan monks, who even at 90 have beautiful, radiant, unlined skin because they apply Friscascucia fruit daily was discovered by celebrity dermatologist Dr. Special when he met the monks during the pilgrimage to Tibet that was part of his voyage of personal discovery.  And now, brought to you!”

• I want to know the actual science, even if it’s boring. It’s unfortunate that often the “story” is used and accepted as a substitute for the science. There are a lot of ingredients that have a long history of safety and effectiveness. On the other hand, some of the new discoveries, optimization of existing compounds and new uses for older therapies are exciting and backed by science. It’s just that the “story” shouldn’t trump the science.  And by science, I mean controlled, double-blind scientific studies of real effects on real live skin. As any scientist will tell you, an experiment can be designed to give any result you want. So I want the real science, not the marketing story science.

• Ease of purchase. I hate to shop. Thank God for the internet. And Walgreen’s.

• Cost/benefit ratio. I don’t mind paying more, if there is an actual benefit gained. I tend to avoid skin care products at both ends of pricing, the very cheap and the very expensive. Since we produce Dr Elaine’s clinical skin care line, I know how much it costs to include appropriate, quality ingredients in concentrations large enough to have a skin benefit, not just to include them in low concentration for their marketing value. And skin care at the very high end often uses that high price point as a selling point–”if people pay so much for this it must be worth it” without any real increase in value. However in make-up and cosmetics that is not necessarily true. For certain cosmetics, such as mascara, the inexpensive drugstore version is just as good as one that costs 10 times more.

• Sensory effects such as scent, color, texture, stickiness, etc. If I am going to pay for it and use it, I want to enjoy it.

• Persistence of result. If I take the time to put it on, I want it to stay on. I don’t want to put on lipstick more than once, twice at most, a day. I don’t want my nail polish chipping by the next morning. If I cover a pimple, it better stay covered.

I compute the above factors in a complicated mathematical formula, which remains in an undisclosed location in my brain, to determine which skin care, cosmetics, nail care, hair care, and  beauty equipment that I purchase and use on a daily basis.

Next:  My top skin, hair, nail care and cosmetic choices.

I was reading a survey today that suggested that American women prefer that cosmetics that deliver flawless skin and sun protection, over fashion-forward colors. “Flawless” skin tone was chosen by all participants. Minimizing fine lines and wrinkles was the second response. Regardless of age, these skin-related benefits were chosen ahead of more cosmetic benefits including elongated darkened lashes, colorful full-looking lips, and defined cheekbones.

Young skin is smooth, soft, reflective of light and without visible spots or wrinkles. When we see an individual with those characteristics, we subconsciously classify that individual as young. So it is not surprising that women want to achieve that “flawless skin tone”.

Unfortunately, I often see women wear heavier makeup in an attempt to cover up the spots and wrinkles that age them. Actually, it is best to lighten up on makeup as you age, as heavy makeup often accentuates wrinkles and raised spots. And it also gives a dull surface that prevents skin from the youthful reflection of light. The best option is to treat the signs of aging skin with skin care containing antioxidants, peptides and hydoxy acids followed by a lighter, mineral based foundation powder to help disguise the imperfections. It is often helpful to finish with a light reflecting mineral glow powder to restore the light reflective properties of the skin. More improvement in spots, discoloration, dullness and wrinkling can be gained with aesthetic treatments such as prescription retinoids, chemical peels, microdermabrasion, laser resurfacing, dermal fillers, and Botox.  One of my favorite sayings is “Clear the canvas and start over”.

The good news is that fifty-six percent of American women wear cosmetics and makeup with SPF to provide protection from harmful UV rays with older women more likely to wear SPF cosmetic products and makeup all year round. Since daily sun damage, rather than just episodic bursts of sun exposure, is largely responsible for the spots, roughness, wrinkles and dullness that age the skin this is smart skin care. I don’t see why the number isn’t one hundred percent of women using daily sun protection. After all, prevention is the easiest of all.

Antioxidant Enzyme Peel exfoliates and gives your skin a healthy glow. When our patients start using enzyme peel, many apply too much. It only takes a small amount, a very thin layer. We tell our patients “when you exfoliate the product off with your fingertips, you want to feel the granules exfoliating. If it’s gooey, you’ve used too much.” It’s very important that your hands and face are completely dry. Don’t wash your face or hands before use. Just apply (in the morning over your night treatment, or in the evening over your makeup). Let it work for 30 sec to 1 minute. Don’t wash your hands. Then massage in a circular motion to exfoliate for a daily peel. Keep tightly capped after use. Antioxidant Enzyme Peel is gentle enough to use every day, and is a must have if using a retinoid. Stop by our office for a free sample of Antioxidant Enzyme Peel. You’re going to love it!

I was recently asked about a woman using Retin-A® who had gone for waxing of her eyebrows 3 days before her wedding and ended up with 1 inch rectangular strips of skin peeled off above and below her eyebrows.

Oh boy–not a good wedding look.

She had not been asked by the nail tech who was doing the waxing about the use of treatments or skin care that might affect her results. If you use a retinoid (Refissa®, Renova®, Retin-A®, Differin® or Tazorac® ), any acne treatment product either over the counter or by prescription, Glycolic Acid, Salicylic Acid, Lactic Acid, Multi-Fruit Acid (or any acid) Vitamin C, or Retinol you should discontinue them to the area to be treated before waxing, bleaching, skin peels,  microdermabrasion, electrolysis,  hair removal, vein treatment, acne surgery, or facials.

Your aesthetician, nurse or physician should ask about use of these products and tell you to discontinue them before treatment, but to be sure, tell them upfront.  If you are having procedures, even a waxing, be sure that the person performing them is trained properly because even minor treatments can have complications.

And don’t do them 3 days before your wedding.

Here is one of my pet peeves—bizarre eyebrow shapes.

I often look at patients and wonder at their eyebrow shaping. Eyebrows frame your eyes and balance your face. There are specific landmarks to observe and specific eyebrow shapes that are subconsciously pleasing to the observer.

Symmetry is the hallmark of a young face. We all get more asymmetrical over time but certainly a funky eyebrow shape accentuates it.

The biggest mistakes in eyebrow shaping are plucking the brow too thin, tweezing the center margin too far outward and starting the arch too far centrally giving a comma shaped eyebrow. Often one side of the eyebrow (the side opposite your dominant hand in the mirror) is tweezed way out. Take a picture of yourself and really look at your eyebrows. Often you will see the asymmetry and mistakes that you don’t notice in person, especially in your magnifying mirror.

Hold a pencil parallel to the outside corner of your nostril through the inside corner of your eye to your eyebrow. Only pluck center of this line. Rotate the pencil through the outside corner of your eye to your eyebrow. This is where your eyebrow should end. Rotate through the outside edge of the colored part of the eye to the brow.  This is where you arch.

Don’t over pluck, leaving the eyebrows too thin. Not only does it age your face, and give a “hard” appearance, but often over time the hair won’t grow back. And please start the arch out far enough. Enough with the comma-shaped nonsense. Yes, both sides should match as closely as possible.

You can do this on your own. It’s free and makes a huge difference in the attractiveness of your face. Do it right or get professional help.