Daily Skin Fix

How To Use Retinoids Without Your Face Peeling Off

As many of you know, I am a strong advocate of daily retinoid use for most patients to prevent aging and correct existing damage. There is so much proven scientific data behind them that they are still the gold standard in topical anti-aging treatment. I have been using prescription retinoids and daily sunscreen for 25 years. If you come to see me as a patient, I will likely recommend that you start one of them as part of your anti-aging skin care program. And, of course, if I recommend it, you will do it.

Retinoids are vitamin A derivatives and include over-the-counter retinol, prescription Retin-A, Renova, Refissa, Tazorac, and Differin. Originally developed for acne, they were found to also increase collagen and elastic fiber production, diminish wrinkling, improve brown discoloration, and reduce both roughness and pore size. Retinoids can be applied to the face, neck, back of hands and forearms as these areas also show aging changes from chronic sun exposure.  Apply a pea size amount to each area on completely dry skin in the evening. Most people can only apply it to skin that is off the face every other night because of irritation.

The biggest drawback, and the reason people discontinue retinoids, is that early on they cause peeling and some redness, a process called retinization. The key to success is to use the right form and to use it correctly on a regular basis, not intermittently. Most people do it this way: they use the retinoid; they get dry and peel so they stop until it gets better and then start again. In the meantime the top layer of skin builds up, just in time to peel again when you restart treatment. That is the wrong way to do it. If you do it that way your skin never adjusts and you will keep peeling every time you start treatment again. If you use it regularly without starting and stopping, after about 2 months your skin will stop peeling. You may have occasional episodes of peeling after an environmental insult to the skin, but much of that can be prevented.

Most, but not all, people who have had problems using a retinoid are able to use it successfully if they do it the right way. I often start patients off every other or every third night and work up to every night, but consistently. You can start with the least irritating retinoid and move up to the more irritating product. Gels are more drying and irritating than creams. Refissa and Renova are the least irritating, then Differin, then Retin A, and finally Tazorac is the most irritating. On the other hand, Tazorac gives the most improvement in pore size and acne scars. Another strategy when you are starting treatment is to mix them with moisturizer to dilute them, apply moisturizer before application (if you are having redness, itching or irritation), or after (if you are just dry). And if you have an episode of dryness and peeling later in treatment, you can always dilute them again for a few days. Our Antioxidant Enzyme Peel is great for removing the peeling skin without abrasion.

Mild stinging, redness, peeling and flaking may occur during the first several months and on occasion. This is normal, soreness and irritation are not. Anything that you use on your skin that abrades the skin will cause more redness and peeling. The most common culprits are washcloths, synthetic cotton balls, makeup brushes, or a granular exfoliant. The infomercial technique of applying mineral powder in a circular scrubbing motion with a special brush is the most common cause retinoid intolerance in my clinic.

Discontinue retinoids 5-7 days before waxing, bleaching, peels, microdermabrasion, acne surgery, hair removal, and laser treatments or you will be sorry. If you wax an area that has been treated with a retinoid, strips of skin will come off with the wax when it is ripped off. Other procedures may burn the skin if you don’t stop retinoid use prior to the procedure. That is why the instructions we give with the prescription goes over this. If you didn’t read your instructions, and have an “unfortunate accident” start with a non-fragranced moisturizer and apply it 3-4 times a day to the area where the skin was ripped off.  I like Aquaphor, or Cetaphil cream. Don’t put any toner or active skin care products (glycolic acid, salicylic acid etc.) on it until it has healed. Don’t scrub or pick. As soon as the skin has healed, (pink, not open, crusted or oozing) wear broad spectrum UVA/UVB sunscreen with an SPF of 20 or higher every single day, whether you normally do or not. Avoid sun exposure over the next several months to help keep the area from darkening over time.

Retinoids do make you more sensitive to the sun and you should use sunscreen every day, year round or you are just undoing what you are trying to do. We used to tell patients that they could not use retinoids if they were in the sun, but now we know that, within reason, you may use them if you use sun protection. Of course, I know you are already wearing your sunscreen every day, because you know that it is an essential part of an anti-aging skin care program.  If you are going to the beach, lake, or skiing, discontinue retinoids for a few days before exposure.

To recap:

How to reduce peeling and irritation with Refissa, Retin A, Differin, Tazorac and retinol

• Use it on a consistent schedule—every day, every other day, every third day, not on and off. Work up to every day.

• Choose a cream not a gel.

• Start with Refissa unless you have oily skin and acne. Refissa is in a moisturizing base, is stronger than Renova, and usually the easiest to tolerate. I use Refissa.

• Apply moisturizer underneath to reduce redness and irritation.

• Apply moisturizer over retinoids to reduce dryness.

• Don’t use mineral powder with a brush, use a sponge.

• Don’t use a washcloth or granular exfoliant.

• Stop retinoids 5-7 days before waxing or laser hair removal, chemical peels.

• Wear sunscreen.

Retinoids are very effective as part of your anti-aging skin rejuvenation program. It is worth working with them to be able to use them successfully.

Your skin can’t take a joke–so don’t tell it one

Hair and nails forgive and forget. But skin is something else again. It doesn’t forgive and it doesn’t forget. So, I do take care of my skin, and pretty well too. And I have for a long time. That is because skin holds a grudge. If you don’t take care of it , it goes bad on you, and at least some of the damage is irreversible. You can fry your hair, color it blue, lose it from going off birth control pills or after pregnancy and it recovers. Hair just says “whatever, and it grows out just fine. And the kind of hair problems that are really frustrating are not from anything that you do, they just happen, like alopecia areata, and the scarring hair loss diseases.  You can have chipped and damaged nails from working in the garden, you can abuse your nails from wearing acrylics and, within reason, they can recover. Unless you damage the matrix or the nail bed, then you gotta pay. But your skin remembers every unkind thing you ever said about it, did to it, or didn’t do to it (like protect it from sun damage). It really can’t take a joke.

So here is what I do. And I do it every day and every night, without fail. And yes, I use my own line of skin care products, Dr Elaine’s Advanced Skin Treatment, almost exclusively. After all, I developed them, and they are full of both high quality botanicals, marine actives, other natural actives with specific purpose, and various cosmeceuticals including alpha and beta hydroxy-acids, peptides, antioxidants, and vitamins. Since I developed them exactly the way I wanted them, this should  be no surprise to anyone.

My morning routine–First I get up, reluctantly, then:

1. Three days a week I use Dr Elaine’s Antioxidant Enzyme Peel (1 oz 38.99). You have to use it when your skin is completely dry. So I do it the very first thing, I don’t wash my hands or face, and I apply it in a very thin layer. Key word is “very thin” and then I let it sit 30 seconds with my hands in the air, without rinsing them, until the peel liquefies. Next I rub in a circular motion and exfoliate the dead skin. Then I rinse with clear water. I love this product because the papaya, grape seed, and willow extracts in it gently exfoliate without granular particles with the end result that my face reflects light well and glows, but it still allows me to use the retinoid Refissa without the increased irritation of a granular exfoliant.
2. Since I have normal-dry skin, I wash with our Facial Cleansing Lotion (6.7 oz $26.99), using my fingers only, never a washcloth. I love this cleanser–it has glycolic acid to exfoliate, it cleanses well, removes make up and the combined group of natural botanical oils leaves my skin soft and smooth rather than uncomfortably tight.
3. Then I follow with our Gentle Toner (6.7 oz $26.99) applied with a 100% cotton ball. Since I have a tendency to get eczema, and use a fairly potent retinoid every night, I need to reduce the tiny microscopic abrasions that I would get from a synthetic “cotton” pad. I don’t need a drying type of toner, so I use this one that is not drying.
4. Then Dr Elaine’s Correcting Serum (1 oz  $59.99) 2-3 pumps for my entire face and neck. The two things that I feel should be used every day as a basic program, other than sunscreen, is either an alpha hydroxy acid or fruit acid, and a retinoid. Our Correcting Serum has both 8% glycolic acid and a multiple fruit acid complex to exfoliate and promote collagen production, and hyaluronic acid to plump wrinkles and balance moisture.
5. Next I apply Dr Elaine’s Line Diminisher (1 oz $89.99). The peptides Acetyl Hexapeptide-3 and Palmitoyl-Pentapeptide 3 combined with hyaluronic acid help minimize fine lines, and antioxidant green tea calms irritation.
6. Then our Facial Moisturizing Cream ($41.99) in the winter or when I am extra dry or my skin is irritated, or our Hydrating Cream ($39.99) if it is summer or less dry weather. Moisturizers like the Facial Moisturizing Cream that are fragrance free are best if your skin has a tendency to irritation and you are using retinoids like Refissa.
7. Then I apply our Total Eye Renewal (0.5 oz $65.99) to my entire face. Yes, I know it says eyes, and I do use it on eyes,  but also on my face,  because the 3 peptides are very good, it has active Vitamin C, bunches of active botanical antioxidants and I really like the silky smooth effect from the shea butter and silicone base.
8. Then I apply DCL Super Sheer Sunscreen SPF 50 (2.5 oz $24.99) to  my face, neck, chest, forearms and backs of my hands every single day, year round, without fail. I really like this sunscreen because it covers a really broad spectrum of UV, and it is so light weight you don’t even know you have it on.

At  night, no matter how tired I am:

1. Dr Elaine’s Facial Cleansing Lotion
2. Refissa (by prescription $145) to face, neck, upper chest. I apply Refissa to back of hands and forearms every other or every third night.
3. Dr Elaine’s Total Eye Renewal ($65.99) around my eyes after Refissa.
4. Brush on Latisse to the base of the eyelashes (by Allergan–prescription $120 a 3 ml bottle) to grow eyelashes and make them darker–but I only apply it every other night or the lashes get too long and thick. That also cuts the cost, as a bottle will then go 2-3 months.
5. Dr Elaine’s Lip Therapy ($5.99) right before bed so my lips don’t get too dried out.

For Body:

1. Dr Elaine’s Calming Body Wash (12 oz $15.99) in shower which helps my dry skin.
2. Dr Elaine’s Smoothing Body Moisturizer (12 oz $37.99) every night. I am atopic, so my skin is sensitive and rashes easily. That means if I don’t apply moisturizer to my entire body I will itch all night and since I don’t want to do that I just go ahead and use body moisturizer every night. I love the scent, and also the powdery smooth feeling.
3. Then I put our Perfecting Hand and Body Moisturizer (12 oz $36.99) on my feet and heels right before bed. The glycolic acid and fruit oils, soften and repair thickened skin and cracks, and the Evening Primrose oil reduces irritation.
4. If I have been lazy and my heels are really bad I will use Ureacin-20 (4 oz $26.99)on them for a couple of nights. It works really well for thickened calloused heels, but leaves a thin white film on them, so I don’t do it in the daytime.
5. For a little color, in the summer or if I am going on vacation I will use Jergen’s Sunless Tanner ($7.99) for medium to tan skin (just means it has more DHA in it and I get color quicker) or Clarins Self Tanning Instant Gel (4.4 oz)

And that’s how I do my own skin care. I take care of my skin, and I don’t tell it any jokes.

Next: how I do cosmetics

Choose skin care like a skin doctor:

Full disclosure: I am the founder of Dr Elaine’s Advanced Skin Treatment clinical skin care line, which I formulated and developed based on my assessment of the merits of various botanical extracts and cosmeceutical advances for an optimal anti-aging, acne, sensitive skin and body skin treatment program. Dr Elaine’s skin care is sold in my cosmetic dermatology practice and online at our web site, SkinTreatment.com. Of course, I am biased toward our skin care products, and use many of them daily, especially since I developed them exactly the way I wanted.

When I talk to patients about skin care, cosmetics and hair care, they often ask “what do you use?” and “why do you use what you use?” Because I am a female cosmetic dermatologist, I am expected to have a rigorously scientific analysis of the merits of each product I use. And to a large extent I do. However, there are additional factors that I use to determine which skin care, cosmetic, nail care, hair care, beauty equipment I purchase and use.

My choices are dictated by the following factors:

• Scientific evidence favoring effectiveness in prevention of skin aging, acne, and skin cancer. Since I know preventing skin aging is easier than reversing it, I am willing to use products that may only have benefits down the road. Luckily for me, I have used a sunscreen and retinoid (first Retin-A, then Renova and now Refissa) daily for the past 27 years.

• Scientific evidence favoring effectiveness in treatment of skin aging, acne and sensitive skin. I’m not impressed by the marketing “story”–you know, “this amazingly potent antioxidant, previously unknown to the world, from the fruit of the Friscascucia plant, found only in a remote region of the Himalayas, harvested lovingly by hand by barefoot, chanting Tibetan monks, who even at 90 have beautiful, radiant, unlined skin because they apply Friscascucia fruit daily was discovered by celebrity dermatologist Dr. Special when he met the monks during the pilgrimage to Tibet that was part of his voyage of personal discovery.  And now, brought to you!”

• I want to know the actual science, even if it’s boring. It’s unfortunate that often the “story” is used and accepted as a substitute for the science. There are a lot of ingredients that have a long history of safety and effectiveness. On the other hand, some of the new discoveries, optimization of existing compounds and new uses for older therapies are exciting and backed by science. It’s just that the “story” shouldn’t trump the science.  And by science, I mean controlled, double-blind scientific studies of real effects on real live skin. As any scientist will tell you, an experiment can be designed to give any result you want. So I want the real science, not the marketing story science.

• Ease of purchase. I hate to shop. Thank God for the internet. And Walgreen’s.

• Cost/benefit ratio. I don’t mind paying more, if there is an actual benefit gained. I tend to avoid skin care products at both ends of pricing, the very cheap and the very expensive. Since we produce Dr Elaine’s clinical skin care line, I know how much it costs to include appropriate, quality ingredients in concentrations large enough to have a skin benefit, not just to include them in low concentration for their marketing value. And skin care at the very high end often uses that high price point as a selling point–”if people pay so much for this it must be worth it” without any real increase in value. However in make-up and cosmetics that is not necessarily true. For certain cosmetics, such as mascara, the inexpensive drugstore version is just as good as one that costs 10 times more.

• Sensory effects such as scent, color, texture, stickiness, etc. If I am going to pay for it and use it, I want to enjoy it.

• Persistence of result. If I take the time to put it on, I want it to stay on. I don’t want to put on lipstick more than once, twice at most, a day. I don’t want my nail polish chipping by the next morning. If I cover a pimple, it better stay covered.

I compute the above factors in a complicated mathematical formula, which remains in an undisclosed location in my brain, to determine which skin care, cosmetics, nail care, hair care, and  beauty equipment that I purchase and use on a daily basis.

Next:  My top skin, hair, nail care and cosmetic choices.

Top 10 Aesthetic Skin Resurfacing Tips

Here are my top 10 tips on cosmetic skin resurfacing, in no particular order. My philosophy is to err on the side of safety. You may get away with breaking the rules. You may not.

These are my opinions, your doctor may feel differently.

1. Top home treatment for skin resurfacing–hands down– are prescription retinoids (Refissa, Renova) in a high enough strength (0.05% or higher)

2. Top home treatment for skin resurfacing without a prescription is glycolic acid containing skin care in a high enough strength to do some good (8,10 or 15%)

3. Remember to stop your retinoids and glycolic acid 3-5 days before a light chemical peel, microdermabrasion, or facial waxing unless you like the scabbed up look.

4. Don’t expect more from the less aggressive treatments than you are likely to get. Fresh, glowing skin with reduced acne and some blending of pigment–yes. Removal of wrinkles and acne scars, growths–no.

5. If you are thinking of doing a deep chemical peel and have any degree of natural pigmentation, or any ancestors even 3 generations back that have any degree of natural pigmentation–think twice. And then think again.

6. When a male doctor tells you that “you will be a little crusted for a couple of days” he usually means “you won’t be comfortable going out in public for a week or more”.

7. For any aggressive skin resurfacing procedure, it is almost always better to do your whole face instead of just a segment. That way if you do get any color change it will at least blend somewhat into the other areas.

8. Be very careful with ablative CO2 laser skin resurfacing, even fractional, on the neck and chest as the risk of scarring is higher on those areas. And the scarring can involve the whole area not just a small section.

9. If you have had an ablative laser (CO2) skin resurfacing procedure, fractional or non-fractional, and are having any problems, such as increasing pain, persistent redness or sensitivity, blisters, insist that you are seen and evaluated by the doctor. Early treatment of complications can reduce scarring.

10. Take the bleaching and sun protection instructions seriously. And follow them.

The fine print about skin resurfacing–risks, side effects, and other unpleasant things

So here is the fine print on risks and side effects of the skin resurfacing procedures we talked about. The risks and side effects are similar with all resurfacing procedures: infection, scarring, pigment problems and redness. This differs from the expected post treatment course such as crusting, flaking etc that we discussed previously, because the risks and side effects are things that, thankfully, don’t usually happen, and ones we don’t want to happen.  The incidence and severity of these reactions vary among with the procedure, with the patient, and with the physician.

Infection: Infection risk can be viral, bacterial or yeast. Viral risk is from the cold sore virus with a post procedure outbreak occurring in someone with a history of frequent cold sores. The virus can then spread into the treated area causing scarring. It can occur with any of the procedures but is more common after the more aggressive procedures. Anyone with a history of cold sore infections should receive preventative treatment with Valtrex. Bacterial infection can occur after picking with any of the procedures. Without picking it is very rare in the less aggressive procedures, more common but still unusual in the more aggressive procedures. Fungal infection, usually with Candida yeast only occurs after the more aggressive procedures.

Scarring: Can occur with any of the procedures, but in the absence of picking, or infection, should not occur in the less aggressive procedures. Much more common after deep chemical peels and traditional dermabrasion.

Pigment problems: Patients with any degree of natural pigment are at increased risk for permanent pigment change, usually darker but sometimes lighter skin, after all resurfacing procedures. The risk rises rather steeply as you move from the less aggressive to more aggressive procedures. At risk skin types include: Hispanic, Asian, American Indian, Middle Eastern, East Indian, Black, including those with these skin types in their genetic makeup several generations back. Caucasians who tan easily and those who get sun exposure are also at risk.  Careful patient selection, not treating irritated skin and reducing post treatment sun exposure are important.

So here are my assessments of the degree of risk for each procedure:

Light Chemical Peels

• Infection: Occasional viral infection if not pretreated.
• Scarring: Very rare unless picking.
• Pigment problems: Uncommon if proper patient selection and patient follows sun exposure precautions. More common if they don’t.

SilkPeel (medical microdermabrasion)

• Infection: Very rare viral infection, unless pretreated.
• Scarring: Very rare
• Pigment problems: Rare

Deep Chemical Peels

• Infection: Moderately common, less if pretreated
• Scarring: Moderately common
• Pigment problems: Uncommon if very fair skin, moderately common if darker skin

Traditional Dermabrasion

• Infection: Moderately common
• Scarring: Common
• Pigment problems: Uncommon if very fair skin, moderately common if darker skin

Non-Ablative Fractional (Fraxel re:store)  Laser Resurfacing

• Infection: Uncommon viral infection, unless pretreated. Very rare bacterial or fungal
• Scarring: Uncommon
• Pigment problems: Uncommon if fair skin, moderately common if darker skin

Ablative Fractional CO2 (Fraxel re:pair and others) Laser Resurfacing

• Infection: Uncommon viral infection, unless pretreated. Rare bacterial or fungal
• Scarring: Relatively uncommon on the face, occasional on neck, chest, arms
• Pigment problems: Uncommon if fair skin, moderately common if darker skin

Who are the highest risk patients?: Patients with a fair amount of natural pigment (darker skin types, or those with darker skin types in their genetic background), smokers, pickers, thin skin, those with tendency to form scars, those with undisclosed recurrent cold sores, and those who don’t take the sun precautions seriously.
Disclose all medical information, follow instructions–what a concept

Who are the highest risk physicians?: Physicians without an in depth, formal training in the skin in health and disease, those who aren’t willing to not treat inappropriate patients because of a profit motive, those who aren’t willing to take the time to be sure the patient understands and follows instructions.
Training, experience and ethical standards–what a concept

What are the highest risk procedures?: From highest to lowest–Traditional dermabrasion and deep chemical peels, then fractional ablative laser resurfacing, fractional non-ablative laser resurfacing, light chemical peels, SilkPeel.
Deep chemical peels, and traditional dermabrasion are the most risky procedures. If you are going to proceed with these, be sure the physician is trained, experienced and does a lot of them.

Remember, these are my opinions and what I tell my patients. Your doctor may feel differently. Don’t make your decision regarding procedures on what I tell you, unless you are my patient. Make your decision based on what your doctor tells you.

Next: Aesthetic skin resurfacing tips

Don’t miss out on our Holiday Sale.  All Dr Elaine’s skin care is 20-30% off,  and of course,  our everyday free USPS Priority Mail shipping.  The sale ends Sunday, November 21 at midnight CST.

If you have never tried our fabulous skin care, now is the time.  And if you are already a fan, thank you.

Dr Elaines’s Advanced Skin Treatment is a dermatologist (guess who?) developed clinical skin care line that combines anti-aging cosmeceuticals with proven natural botanicals.  Cosmeceuticals are cosmetics that have effects on the skin. The main groups are the peptides, antioxidants, growth factors, and vitamins. They improve fine lines, roughness, blotchy pigment, loss of elasticity, dullness, acne, and stimulate collagen production. Our botanicals are plant derived compounds that are used for their antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, exfoliant, moisture balancing, and collagen stimulating properties.

We offer specialized skin care products for acne, anti-aging, skin pigment lightening, sensitive skin, rosacea and hair and body.

Clinical skin care is both a preventative anti-aging strategy and a repair strategy for skin that needs help. It is your everyday health program for your skin, and the foundation of an anti-aging program.  Your skin is smoother with a healthy glow, reduction in appearance of lines, wrinkles, acne blemishes and brown discoloration.

If you have never been to our web site SkinTreatment.com here is where you can find what you need:
Holiday Sale Dr Elaine’s Skin Care on Sale 20-30% Off including all skin care on sale through Sunday November 21, midnight CST

If you know what you need, or are shopping for skin care after our Holiday Sale, these sections are always available, which show our current special offers:
All Acne Skin Care on Sale– all of the special offers for our acne skin care, including sets at a discount
All Anti-Aging Skin Care on Sale–all of the special offers for our anti-aging, and lightening skin care including sets at a discount
All Skin Care Sets on Sale–all discounts on skin care sets or kits
All Skin Care on Sale–everything–all skin care that is on sale

If you already use Dr Elaine’s skin care, take advantage of this great sale to stock up. If you are considering trying it,  this is a great opportunity.

Aesthetic Skin Resurfacing Treatments

• Costs
• Number of Treatments
• Recovery Time

As with any aesthetic skin procedure, you need to weigh the benefits of skin resurfacing procedures against the cost, number of treatments needed and recovery time. Of course, these vary by patient, by the severity of the problem that we are treating, and by physician.

The following are averages, your problem may require more or less treatments, your recovery time may be longer or shorter, and the cost may be greater or less than average. Many cosmetic practices offer discounts for packages of a series of treatments, or for multiple procedures performed together or on the same day. So the following are averages, your doctor may charge more or less:

Light Chemical Peels (Glycolic Acid 50-70%)

• Cost: $75/peel or package of 6 for $375
• Number treatments needed: 6
• Recovery time: 1 day of crusted pimples, mild flaking 3-4 days

Medical Microdermabrasion (SilkPeel)

• Cost: $165/treatment or package of 6 for $825
• Number treatments needed: 6
• Recovery time: none

GentleWaves LED

• Cost: $ 140-185/treatment
• Number treatments needed: 6
• Recovery time: none

Intense Pulsed Light (IPL)

• Cost: $500-700 face/treatment
• Number treatments needed: 2-3
• Recovery time: Redness for 1 day, brown spots turn darker and peel off day 5

IPL/PDT

• Cost: $1000/treatment
• Number treatments needed: 1-2
• Recovery time: Redness and light sensitivity for 3 days, crusting of pre-cancerous areas for 1-3 weeks depending on severity

Laser resurfacing results, recovery time, need for anesthesia and costs vary based on the procedure. For example Fraxel now has 3 different versions of the original Fraxel, all named Fraxel (which leads to confusion when patients don’t know which version is which–bad idea I think but no one asked me): Fraxel re:fine (used by aestheticians), Fraxel re:store (the original Fraxel) and Fraxel re:pair (fractional ablative CO2). As you go up the scale, the cost and recovery time increases and the number of treatments decrease. Fraxel re:pair may require IV anesthesia in a surgery center.

Fraxel re:fine laser resurfacing

• Cost: $750-$1000/treatment
• Number treatments needed: 4-6
• Recovery time: 1 day redness, mild flaking 3-4 days later

Fraxel re:store laser resurfacing

• Cost: $1000-$1500/treatment
• Number treatments needed: 3-5
• Recovery time: 1 day redness and swelling, 5 days bronzing skin, fine flaking day 6-7

Fraxel re:pair laser resurfacing

• Cost: $3000-$5000/treatment + possible anesthesia and facility costs
• Number treatments needed: 1-2
• Recovery time: Pinpoint bleeding  and oozing for up to 48 hours. Swelling and crusting for 1 week, redness for 1 month

Laser resurfacing results, recovery time, need for anesthesia and costs vary based on the procedure. For example Fraxel now has 3 different versions of the original Fraxel, all named Fraxel (leads to confusion when patients don’t know which version is which–bad idea I think but no one asked me): Fraxel re:fine (used by aestheticians), Fraxel re:store (the original Fraxel) and Fraxel re:pair (fractional ablative CO2). As you go up the scale, the cost and recovery time increases and the number of treatments decrease. Fractional ablative CO2 resurfacing technology may require IV sedation and ambulatory surgical facility which may increase costs.

So there you have it, as always in life, there are tradeoff’s and you just have to decide what you want, what you need, and what you are willing to do to get it.

Next: Now the fine print about skin resurfacing–risks, side effects, and other unpleasant things

How do you know which aesthetic skin resurfacing treatment is right for you?

I am often asked this question and my answer is “what do you want to accomplish, how much improvement do you want, and how much time and money do you want to devote to it?” You can start at either end–want do you want or what are you willing to do to get it, but you have to start somewhere. Cosmetic skin resurfacing procedures that are more aggressive give more results. They cost more, usually because of the technology involved.

If you expect a lot of improvement, but don’t have the time or money to get there, you are going to be disappointed. Sometimes this is a hard pill for patients to swallow. They want the kind of results that the procedures that they can afford won’t give them. I try to be honest and explain the real world results that they can expect, and then the choice is to do the less expensive, less aggressive treatments and get some improvement, do financing and pay it off over time, or save up until you can afford what you need. On the other hand, if you don’t need or want more aggressive results, then the less aggressive procedures are right for you. That’s why the prevention strategies we discussed previously are so important. But if the horse is already out of the barn, you have to do what it takes to get him back in.

Remember if you are not my patient don’t pay attention to what I tell you. Pay attention to what your doctor tells you.

If you have these changes, then these are your options:

Dull skin:

• Home treatment: exfoliants, glycolic, salicylic or multi-fruit acids, tretinoin (Retin-A, Renova, Refissa)
• Less aggressive office treatment: light chemical peels, microdermabrasion (SilkPeel), LED (GentleWaves)
• More aggressive office treatment: not needed

Flat brown spots:

• Home treatment: some improvement if mild*–exfoliants, glycolic or multi-fruit acids, tretinoin (Retin-A, Renova, Refissa), skin bleach
• Less aggressive office treatment: light chemical peels, microdermabrasion, LED (GentleWaves)
• More aggressive office treatment: Intense Pulsed Light (IPL)

Raised brown spots:

• Home treatment: won’t work
• Less aggressive office treatment: lesions destruction with liquid nitrogen or electocautery
• More aggressive office treatment: lesion destruction + laser resurfacing

Fine lines

• Home treatment: glycolic, multi-fruit acids, peptides, growth factors, tretinoin (Retin-A, Renova, Refissa)
• Less aggressive office treatment: LED (GentleWaves), Botox, light chemical peels, microdermabrasion (SilkPeel)
• More aggressive office treatment: laser resurfacing

Skin colored bumps (milia cysts, moles, syringomas, fibromas, etc)

• Home treatment: milia only–exfoliants, glycolic, salicylic or multi-fruit acids, tretinoin
• Less aggressive office treatment: milia only–light chemical peels. All others–lesion destruction with shaving, electrocautery
• More aggressive office treatment: laser resurfacing

Broken blood vessels

• Home treatment: won’t work
• Less aggressive office treatment: electrocautery to isolated veins
• More aggressive office treatment: Intense Pulsed Light (IPL)

Non-etched wrinkles (go away when you stretch the skin)

• Home treatment: some improvement if mild*– glycolic, multi-fruit acids, peptides, growth factors, tretinoin (Retin-A, Renova, Refissa)
• Less aggressive office treatment: dermal fillers (Juvederm, Restylane etc), Botox
• More aggressive office treatment: laser resurfacing,dermal fillers and/or Botox + laser resurfacing

Etched wrinkles (don’t go away when you stretch the skin)

• Home treatment: some improvement if mild*– tretinoin (Retin-A, Renova, Refissa)
• Less aggressive office treatment: dermal fillers (Juvederm, Restylane etc), Botox
• More aggressive office treatment: laser resurfacing, dermal fillers and/or Botox + laser resurfacing

Rough spots (pre-cancerous actinic keratosis)

• Home treatment: some improvement if mild*– tretinoin, more improvement with– prescription topical fluorouracil, imiquimod, diclofenac
• Less aggressive office treatment: liquid nitrogen
• More aggressive office treatment: photodynamic therapy (IPL/PDT)

Enlarged pores

• Home treatment: if plugged only–exfoliants, glycolic, salicylic or multi-fruit acids, tretinoin (Retin-A, Renova, Refissa), tazarotene (Tazorac), and adapalene (Differin)
• Less aggressive office treatment: if plugged only–light chemical peels, microdermabrasion.
• More aggressive office treatment: if permanently enlarged–laser resurfacing

Scars

• Home treatment: some improvement in acne scars if mild*– tazarotene (Tazorac)
• Less aggressive office treatment: some improvement in acne scars if mild*–light chemical peels, microdermabrasion, dermal fillers (Juvederm, Restylane etc)
• More aggressive office treatment: laser resurfacing, surgical removal

Loss of elasticity

• Home treatment: some improvement if mild*–glycolic, multi-fruit acids, peptides, growth factors, tretinoin (Retin-A, Renova, Refissa)
• Less aggressive office treatment: some improvement if mild*–light chemical peels, microdermabrasion.
• More aggressive office treatment: laser resurfacing

Elastosis (yellowish, stiff, bumpy, permanently creased or cross-hatched change from long term sun damage)

• Home treatment: won’t work
• Less aggressive office treatment: won’t work
• More aggressive office treatment: laser resurfacing

Note: “some improvement if mild*”–your definition and my definition of mild may not be the same.

Next: What’s it gonna take?

Skin Resurfacing–the Overhaul
Prevent and Correct Moderate or Advanced Changes
With Dermatology Office Treatments

When you are seeing more advanced changes and look in the mirror and think “I really don’t care for these changes,” it’s time to move on to some of the moderate to advanced dermatology in-office resurfacing procedures. You are in this category of moderate to advanced changes if you are seeing one or more of the following changes: etched lines(lines that don’t totally go away when you stretch the skin), enlarged pores, loss of elasticity, the irregular bumpy slightly yellowish sallow surface that dermatologists call elastosis, and more pronounced brown spots, and worsening of old acne scars.

Options are:
Deep Chemical Peels
Traditional Dermabrasion
and Laser Resurfacing

Deep Chemical Peels

Deep chemical peels have been around for a long time. They include high strength Trichloroacetic Acid (TCA, and Phenol peels. Both will penetrate deep enough into the skin to treat at the level at which deep etched wrinkles and acne scars reside, and that is how they treat deep etched lines and acne scars. The problem that is also the drawback, that they penetrate deep enough into the skin to cause scarring. Because they are applied by hand, by a physician, they are dependent on the thickness of the skin, the preparation of the skin before the procedure and the amount of acid applied. And even in the hands of a skilled physician who has performed many deep chemical peels, there is an inherent unpredictability with the depth that the acid will penetrate. Because of this, the risk of side effects such as permanent pigmentation changes, and scarring are greater than with laser resurfacing. Also sometimes they actually cause enlarged pores. Phenol peels always cause permanent loss of pigment so that the skin turns snow white. This is acceptable if your skin type is extremely fair, but not if you have any significant natural pigment. Both require general anesthesia.

I did a fair amount of deep chemical peels under anesthesia early in my career, but have abandoned them in favor of laser resurfacing. I will say that Phenol peels remove etched lines above the upper lip more completely than any other treatment, by replacing the skin and wrinkles with what is essentially a sheet of white scar. But this requires a patient with very fair skin, and the patient will be required to wear makeup every day forever to cover the fairly marked difference in color between treated and untreated skin.

Traditional Dermabrasion

Traditional dermabrasion (not to be confused with microdermabrasion), involves using an electric medical sanding tool to sand off the skin. It is used most often for deep acne scars. The problem again is that the depth of the treatment is dependent on the skin thickness, and the skill of the physician doing the procedure. Deep acne scars are from acne cysts that occur deep enough in the skin to cause a scar. Traditional dermabrasion is performed at the level of skin where scars form. That is why traditional dermabrasion replaces acne scars with a sheet of new scar. The skin never really looks or feels normal.

Laser Resurfacing

Laser resurfacing is divided into ablative and non ablative depending on whether the surface layer of the skin is removed with treatment (ablative) or not (non-ablative). It is also divided into fractional and non-fractional.

The first skin resurfacing lasers in the 90′s were ablative and non-fractional CO2 lasers. Non-fractional ablative lasers only required one treatment but usually required general anesthesia. Patients looked like they belonged in a burn unit for 2-3 weeks, were red and sensitive for months. Although not known in the first few years of use, some patients developed permanent loss of pigment in the treated skin several years after treatment. Additionally the risk of scarring, though less than deep chemical peels and traditional dermabrasion was unacceptably high. I also did many ablative non-fractional CO2 laser treatments in the 90′s but like most physicians switched to fractional laser resurfacing when it became available.

Fractional laser resurfacing was developed to address some of these problems. Fractional means that only a fraction of the skin is treated at a time by creating thousands of tiny treated channels in the skin surrounded by untreated skin. This allows safer treatment with much less risk of scarring and permanent pigment change, but requires more than one treatment to achieve best results. Fractional lasers are either ablative (destroys the top layer of skin) or non-ablative (does not). Fraxel was the first laser to utilize the fractional technology. Fractional laser resurfacing creates microscopic “wounds” within targeted areas beneath the outer layer of skin. The natural healing process produces collagen and healthy skin cells.

The original fractional laser resurfacing treatment Fraxel, is now Fraxel:restore, and is non-ablative. Fraxel:repair is a more recent development and is ablative. Ablative lasers require less treatments, but each treatment has a longer recovery time. Ablative lasers also may require general anesthesia. Non-ablative lasers may be safely used on the neck, chest, forearms and hands. Ablative lasers carry a risk of scarring in these areas.

We use Fraxel:restore as our patients prefer more treatments with less downtime and less discomfort with each treatment. They also don’t want general anesthesia which ablative procedures may require. In the last few years, many new resurfacing lasers have emerged. All have their pros and cons, but there are now multiple choices, and each physician usually has a personal preference.

Laser resurfacing treats mild to moderate wrinkles, surface irregularities, blotchy pigment, acne scarring, large pores, and stretch marks. Skin is smoother, less wrinkled and more refined with smaller pore size.

Photos of before and after Fraxel eyelid treatment
Photos of before and after Fraxel facial treatment

Next: How to know which skin resurfacing treatment is right for you.

The easy way–preventative maintenance with at home treatment

Preventive maintenance, ideally beginning in your early twenties, is the easy way to resurface your skin–before you even need it. At home treatment on a daily basis can prevent many of the changes that would require more aggressive treatment later. Even if you start later, either because the options weren’t around earlier, or because you just didn’t get around to it, you can get a good amount of improvement from relatively simple home treatment.

The key to success with this option is consistent and daily treatment with anti-aging cosmeceuticals, botanicals, exfoliants, retinoids and sunscreen. I see patients who start and stop programs, don’t stick with it, and blow off many days of treatment because they are too rushed to stick to a routine or who only wear sunscreen “when I am going to get a lot of sun”. There really is no reason not to get on a program and stick with it. It will pay off in the long run.

The 5 key components are:

• Cosmeceuticals
• Botanicals
• Exfoliants
• Retinoids
• Sunscreen

Cosmeceuticals are cosmetics that have effects on the skin. The main groups are the peptides, antioxidants, growth factors, and vitamins. They improve fine lines, roughness, blotchy pigment, loss of elasticity, dullness, acne, and stimulate collagen production.

Botanicals are plant derived compounds that are used for their antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, exfoliant, moisture balancing, and collagen stimulating properties.

I will talk about skin care, cosmeceuticals, and botanicals more in a future column with specific information about the individual compounds. In the meantime, there is a complete listing of cosmeceuticals and botanicals with their historical use; scientific, botanical, and trade names; and the scientific evidence of activity on the website in our Education Center.

Retinoids include over-the-counter retinol, and the prescription synthetic vitamin A derivatives tretinoin (Retin-A, Renova, Refissa), tazarotene (Tazorac), and adapalene (Differin).

Retinoids enhance collagen and elastin production thereby diminishing wrinkling, improve discoloration and roughness, and reduce pore size.

Retinoids do make you more sensitive to the sun, and should be used with daily sunscreen. We used to tell patients not to use them if they were going to get sun exposure but now we know that, within reason, you may use them as long as you use good sun protection. If you are going to the beach, lake, or skiing discontinue them for a few days before exposure.

They shouldn’t be used by pregnant or nursing mothers.

The current cost of Refissa (1 tube, 40 gm) $146.00; for Tazorac (1 tube, 30 gm) $170.00-180.00; Differin (1 tube, 45 gm) $260.00. One tube of either of these should last you about 4 months or more.

The biggest drawback, and the reason people discontinue them, is that they are irritating to the skin. I often start patients off on every other or every third night use and work up to every night. Another option is to start with the least irritating, Differin, and move up to the more irritating Refissa (for normal-dry skin) or Tazorac (for oily or acne prone skin). In addition you can either mix moisturizer half and half with them or apply moisturizer before (if you are having redness, itching or irritation) or after (if you are just dry) you apply them at night.

You should apply a pea size amount to the face after cleansing and toning in the evening. The skin should be completely dry before application. You should also apply it to the neck, back of the hands and forearms although most people can only apply it there every other night because of irritation. Those areas get aged from sun exposure just like your face. You don’t want to be one of those women who say “I hate the spots on my hands”. And while you are at it remember the sunscreen to neck, forearms and backs of hands. You need both.

Mild stinging, mild redness and mild peeling and flaking may occur during the first several weeks and on occasion when using Refissa, Renova, Retin-A, Differin or Tazorac.  This is normal.  Flaking is normal, soreness and irritation are not. To help reduce irritation, do not use washcloth, facial brushes, mesh scrubs, daily facial cloths, mineral powder brush or granular exfoliants on the face.

Discontinue these products to affected area 1 week before waxing or bleaching, or before other procedures (peels, microdermabrasion, facial, acne surgery, hair removal, laser treatments as directed.) You don’t want to end up like the bride who waxed three days before the wedding and disaster ensued.

I am a strong advocate of daily retinoid use, I feel that almost every patient desiring to prevent aging, or correct existing damage should use them. There is so much proven scientific data behind them they are still considered the gold standard in topical anti-aging treatment.

Daily, year round, sunscreen use is essential or you are just undoing what you are trying to do. Once again I refer you to my post “Quit complaining and wear your damn sunscreen”. Just do it.

If you start early on a home preventative anti-aging program you will have to do less later on and you will look better both today and tomorrow. It is never too late to start, you will see improvement. Stick with it. It is really a no-brainer.

Next: A tune up: In office treatment for early  or moderate changes