Daily Skin Fix

To the consternation of the tanning industry, dermatologists lecture you all the time about the medical and cosmetic dangers of tanning, especially indoor tanning. That is because UV exposure is the single most cosmetically damaging thing you can do to your skin, as well as the major cause of skin cancer. No matter what the tanning industry says.

I know you get tired of hearing it from me. Too bad. But, I am going to cut you some slack. I am going to let someone else lecture you. So listen to our guest blogger, Jourdan Miller, on some of the interesting recent findings that tanning is similar to drug addiction.

I am loaning her my bulletproof vest.

 

More than Skin Deep
by Jourdan Miller

The prototypical American beauty is typically portrayed as blonde, thin, tall and most importantly: tan. While achieving this California dime look may seem harmless, new research from The Archives of Dermatology reveal that tanning is another form of addiction and as physically detrimental as cocaine abuse.

New York Times author Tara Parker-Pope writes about these shocking findings in her article, Is Indoor Tanning Addictive? “In the study, 78 percent of the most frequent tanners said they had tried to cut down on indoor tanning but had been unable to,” Pope writes. “Frequent tanners reported missing scheduled plans because they had opted to use a tanning bed instead.”

Frequent exposure to UV light produces opioids in the brain, more commonly referred to as endorphins. Indoor tanners report feeling happy, calm and relaxed and brain scans prove that the body is at a heightened state of contentment, writes Parker.

Dermatologist Dr. Robert McDonald says he sees tanning addiction all too often in his patients.

“The problem is only getting worse as affluence increases,” McDonald said of this affliction. “People have more money so their going on beach vacations to [places like] Cancun.”

As the media glamorize beauty, they often make it synonymous with bronzed skin and a youthful, carefree attitude.  Unfortunately, such ideas have a damaging effect on health.

“The threat is so far removed people aren’t paying attention to it right now,” McDonald said. “It’s like saving for retirement, it’s something you should do but if you don’t you might be ok, it’s also like telling a 20 year old ‘you better stop smoking now or you might get cancer in 30 years’; it’s hard to see yourself down the road.”

The human brain responds to UV light and almost immediately a bio chemical reaction triggers an addictive response, McDonald says. With nearly 30 million Americans tanning indoors every year, the habit isn’t going anywhere soon.

“We have 20 times more melanoma than in the 1920s,” McDonald said about the increased frequency of skin cancer. “It’s the kind of thing that happens when you’re young, before 25. It a cycle between the beach and the tanning bed.”

UW-Madison student Kayla Gross’ bronzed-skin-bliss took taken a turn for the worse last May. After developing a strange growth on her leg, dermatologists confirmed that Gross had skin cancer.

“I loved the warmth. If I didn’t go I wouldn’t feel right,” Gross said when asked why she continued the unhealthy habit.

An avid tanner throughout high school, Gross tanned for 20 minutes every other day. No eye goggles, no sunscreen, and no worries.

“I used to say ‘skin cancer isn’t a big deal, they just cut it off and remove it.’” Gross said about her outlook on cancer in high school. “I’ve had basil cell three times now, and I have the scars to prove it.”

While Gross had a wake-up call early in life, many of America’s youth aren’t so lucky.

“There’s a long time before this goes away,” McDonald said. “It’s an addictive behavior that’s only going to get worse.”

Jourdan Miller is a student at the University of Wisconsin-Madison in the School of Journalism and Mass Communication. When she’s not reading the latest article on beauty, fitness or skincare, you’ll find her running along the lake and dining out at the trendy restaurants in Madison. 

 Check out her blog http://jourdanmiller.wordpress.com/

 

 

 

 

How to pick like a dermatologist

My lawyer won’t leave me alone unless I remind you of my medical-legal disclaimer so here goes, again:

Electronic message exchanges to, from, or with Dr. Cook do not constitute medical advice, an evaluation, or consultation and must not be considered a replacement or substitute for a formal evaluation in the office. Information and correspondence in this blog does not form and will not result in a doctor-patient relationship. If you desire an evaluation or consultation, contact our office for an appointment. Recommended changes to your present treatment plan or therapy must be approved by your physician. Explanation and/or discussion of off-label services and/or products, if mentioned, do not reflect endorsement or promotion by Dr. Cook and must not be construed as such.

Let’s finish our review of   “Dr. Elaine’s so you think you can dermatology quiz”!!

When should I pull the flaky crust off?

• This instant
• When I want it gone so my makeup will go on smoothly
• When I can rip it off with tweezers and get good, fresh blood
• When the edges are lifted but the center is still stuck down
• When it completely lifts off by itself
• Never

When skin heals, it heals from underneath and the tissue rises up from the depth of the hole to the surface. When it get absolutely flush with the surrounding skin the cells from the surrounding normal skin start to migrate centrally into and cover the central defect. Epithelial or surface skin cells are really smart and they only want to migrate when they can do so absolutely horizontally. They don’t like to climb down into valleys or climb up hills. If you pick off a scab or crust before the tissue underneath has risen to be absolutely flush with the surrounding skin, the surface cells often won’t go ahead and move centrally to cover the hole. If you keep picking the scab off, they finally give up and say “OMG, alright already I will climb down that hole but you will be sorry because now you are going to have a divot, a depressed scar”. Once the surface cells close over a hole, the base stops rising, so it will never be flush with the skin.

Once the skin cells start migrating centrally under the scab, the crust starts to lift up at the edges as a flake. And yes, makeup makes it look worse. If you pick it off when the center is still stuck down you will see either an oozing hole in the center, or it will be shiny and red. Then your skin sends in more healing factors and it gets redder, and just tries to make another flake or crust. And you have put yourself behind another couple of days.

If you want to try to remove the edges that are lifting up, take a soft washcloth soaked in tap water (no not toner or alcohol or what have you) and gently press it on the crust. Do not rub or scrub. Leave it there 5 minutes and then let the area air dry. Often the edges that are ready to come off will lift off by themselves. Then apply a bland (meaning no glycolic, salicylic, etc.) plain moisturizer dot over it and let it soak in. Gently blot off excess.  Then apply your foundation and the flake will be less noticeable.

To cover a pimple or crust/flaky area, do not use concealer. Use a liquid foundation. Apply foundation to your entire face first, if you use foundation. Then put a small dot on your index finger and pat, pat, pat it on the spot. Do not rub. Then, press powder with a sponge over it. Do not rub. The key is to not rub but to press or pat only. If you rub over a healing spot, the foundation comes right back off.

Answer is: When it completely lifts off by itself.

What is the best way to remove those little white beads under the skin?

• Apply Retin-A 37 times over 24 hours
• Squeeze them until they pop through the skin like “Aliens”
• Scrape them off with a fingernail
• Prick the top with a clean, sharp straight pen and squeeze gently.  Once
• Do a reverse osmosis high colonic

Those little white beads are usually milia. Milia are little hard cysts under the skin that look like round white beads when they are removed. Usually they just happen, there is no particular reason.  Some people get them when they use heavy moisturizers, all day wear foundations, waterproof sunscreens, or apply mineral powder with a brush. Milia don’t have a pore so squeezing them won’t make them come out unless you squeeze hard enough to rupture the skin.

The best way to remove them is to gently prick the surface with a clean, sharp straight pin and gently squeeze them. The ones around the eyes and on the eyelids are often very hard to get out, even for me.

Answer is: Prick the top with a clean, sharp straight pen and squeeze gently.  Once. If they don’t come out easily or for those on the eyelids, come in and we will get them out.

 What are the possible complications from picking?

• Scarring
• Permanent pigmentation changes
• Infection
• Delaying treatment of a skin cancer
• Continual harassment from my husband
• All of the above

I can’t tell you how often I see women with bad scars simply from picking. The most common are on the lower face, and are depressed white gouge marks. If you keep picking you will get scars. Often the pigment cells won’t recover and you will be left with a permanent white, depressed scar that doesn’t hold makeup well because there are no pores in the scar. If you have a lot of natural pigment, you may have a depressed scar that is darker than the surrounding skin. If you have a tendency to make keloids or thick scars, it may be raised and thick. None of these is your desired outcome.

Answer is: All of the above.  So stop.

How do I know I am picking too much?

• When I have to use medical makeup meant to cover birthmarks and severe burn scars
• When I spot the Intervention production crew talking to my husband
• I keep a 10x magnifying mirror and tweezers at my side 24/7/356
• I keep picking when I know there no chance that it will help
• When Dr. Elaine tells me so
• All of the above

Women are pickers. Some women are major pickers. Every single woman I tell to stop picking already knows they are picking too much and is causing permanent damage. It’s a weird phenomenon. About half the time they are picking because they want to cover it up with makeup and think it looks worse if they don’t pick the scab off.  The rest are picking because it is there, or pick when they are stressed or anxious. It is an extremely hard habit to break and I wish I had the answer.

Only two things seem to work. The most effective and best solution is to see your dermatologist and get whatever it is you are picking at treated so there won’t be anything to pick at. Usually it is adult acne. We can treat that. The other is to pick one spot, preferably up in your scalp so the scar won’t be visible and pick at that and then leave the others alone.  Good luck with that one.

Answer is: All of the above. We see this all day long, and will commiserate and not judge (though I do tease quite a bit) because we are pickers too. But we are trained, licensed, professional pickers, who know how to do it right and know when to stop, even if it is hard for us to stop picking on ourselves. Come in and we will help you. The best solution is to get what you are picking at treated so you won’t have anything to pick on. Except your husband or significant other.

When should I stop playing junior dermatologist and see a real one?

• When I see scarring
• When I see increased redness, pain, bleeding, or pigment
• When it is not getting better within one week
• For any brown, black, growing, bleeding, or tender growth or persistent sore
• Any growth that I am not absolutely sure is not skin cancer
• When I want the best result possible
• All of the above

Answer is: Hello, all of the above. Class is dismissed. Have a good weekend.

Next: Don’t know. Will have to see what kind of a mood I am in.

If you must pick, do it like a dermatologist

My lawyer is standing over my shoulder again reminding me to remind you of my medical-legal disclaimer so here goes:

Electronic message exchanges to, from, or with Dr. Cook do not constitute medical advice, an evaluation, or consultation and must not be considered a replacement or substitute for a formal evaluation in the office. Information and correspondence in this blog does not form and will not result in a doctor-patient relationship. If you desire an evaluation or consultation, contact our office for an appointment. Recommended changes to your present treatment plan or therapy must be approved by your physician. Explanation and/or discussion of off-label services and/or products, if mentioned, do not reflect endorsement or promotion by Dr. Cook and must not be construed as such.

Let’s review “Dr. Elaine’s so you think you can dermatology quiz”!!

What is a good reason to pick at a skin spot or pop a pimple?

• It is there
• It hurts
• I really think I can get it better
• Makeup makes it look worse
• I have a date tonight
• I am stressed

Women pick.  For all of the above reasons.  It is an interesting psychological issue, because men rarely pick just because something is there. Sometimes, if it hurts or itches, but not because it is there. Very commonly I see women who pick at a lesion every morning even though they know it will make things worse, because foundation makes it look worse and it is easier to cover without the flaking or scabbing (read: healing).  And when under stress, they do it even more.

Answer is: I really think I can get it better. The only reason to pick at a pimple or spot is if you really think you are going to make it better.

How many times should I try to pick at a pimple or something on my skin before I give up?

• One
• Three
• Ten
• Thirty-seven
• Four Hundred
• Never give up

Often women pick at a pimple that they either know is “not ready,” or that they know won’t respond to picking. Like running for president, you only get so many tries before your chances of success approaches zero. It’s extremely common for women to squeeze and pick at a pimple before the white blood cells have finally consolidated into a collection of pus. The white blood cells are dispersed throughout the tissue and squeezing too early just causes them to take the path of least physical resistance and that is down and out in the tissue, not rupturing through the skin at the top of the pimple.  This causes inflammation, and inflammation brings more white blood cells, swelling, and all sorts of inflammatory chemicals into the area. Which then just gets worse.

The key to popping a pimple in a way that will actually cause it to resolve is to wait until it is ready. Leave it alone, let your body consolidate the white blood cells into a drop of pus, let it rise to the surface and then pop it. Once.  If you are not sure it is “ready,” it’s not. Wait.

Answer is: three.  But the real answer is: one. Wait like a lioness at a watering hole until the situation is perfect. Pick your time. Pounce. do it once and do it right. And get the gazelle.

What is a good indicator that a pimple will respond to picking by getting better?

• I want it to be gone
• It is deep and painful
• It is red
• I can see pus at the top
• It is draining
• I have a date tonight

Deep and painful pimples are by definition—deep. Which means that picking at the surface won’t get you to the collection of pus that needs to be drained for the pimple to resolve. It is either: not a consolidated pus collection that will “pop” and/or too deep in the skin for the pressure of a squeeze to rupture the skin above it so it can drain. Instead it will rupture down and into the tissues. And get worse.

Answer is: I can see pus at the top.

When you see a definite collection of pus at the top, that means the pimple is high enough in the skin and the thickness of the skin between the pus drop and the outside is thin enough that the pressure of a squeeze has a good chance of rupturing the pus drop outward.

What is a good indicator that a pimple will respond to picking by getting worse?

• I want it to be gone
• It is deep and painful
• It is red
• I can see pus at the top
• It is draining
• I have a date tonight

As above a deep and painful lesion is either: not a pimple that is ready to pop, or, not a pimple. If it is draining that is a sign that it has already consolidated into a pus drop and drained, or, you have been picking at it. In any of these situations picking at it won’t help. And will probably make it worse.

The answers “I want it to be gone” and “I have a date tonight” are examples of what we in the medical profession call “magical thinking.” As in, “if wishes were fishes, we would all be fishermen.”

Answer is: It is draining. But the real answer is: anything other than “I can see pus at the top.”

I am deep enough in the skin to cause scarring when I see?

• Redness
• Pus
• Blood
• Muscle
• China

The skin has 3 layers: the epidermis (surface), the dermis (containing blood vessels,  collagen, elastic fibers and tiny nerves), and the subcutaneous fat(which is…fat).  Underlying that is muscle. You will see blood as soon as you are into the dermis. Scars are made of collagen fibers and are the body’s response to injury. Collagen is made in the dermis in response to injury. When you are picking at a spot you are causing injury. So if you see blood you are deep enough in the skin to cause injury that the body responds to by forming scars. If you are deeper than that you will certainly get scarring.

Answer is: Blood

What things should I not pick at?

• Red bump filled with pus
• Deep tender pimple that I feel but can’t see
• Little white beads under the skin
• Moles
• The spot I have been picking at for 6 months
• Growths

In life there are things you can probably do, things you might get away with and things you shouldn’t do. Try to stay within the first, and only do the second if the downside is limited. “Red bump filled with pus” is in the first category, if you do it right. “Deep tender pimple that I feel but can’t see”  and “little white beads under the skin” is in the second category. “Moles,” “the spot I have been picking at for 6 months,” and “growths” are in the third group.

Moles and most growths are deep enough in the skin, you won’t be able to remove them, or if you are a masochist, you will remove them with scarring. The spot you have been picking at for 6 months isn’t going to suddenly give up and go away quietly.  And do I even need to say it—it may be a skin cancer, and even a serious one.

Answer is: Deep tender pimple that I feel but can’t see, moles, the spot I have been picking at for 6 months, growths.

Go to the dermatologist.

All right, class is out for the day.  Come prepared to finish the quiz review next time.

So you want to be a junior dermatologist?

Women pick at skin lesions, growths, cysts and spots. It is hard wired into our DNA. The first rule in medicine is to know what you know, know what you don’t know, and know that you know the difference.

So junior dermatologist, let’s take a pre-test.

 

 

 

Dr. Elaine’s “So you think you can dermatology?” Quiz

What is a good reason to pick at a skin spot?

1. It is there
2. It hurts
3. I really think I can get it better
4. Makeup makes it look worse
5. I have a date tonight
6. I am stressed

How many times should I try to pick at something before I give up?

1. One
2. Three
3. Ten
4. Thirty-seven
5. Four Hundred
6. Never give up

What is a good indicator that a pimple will respond to picking by getting better?

1. I want it to be gone
2. It is deep and painful
3. It is red
4. I can see pus at the top
5. It is draining
6. I have a date tonight

What is a good indicator that a pimple will respond to picking by getting worse?

1. I want it to be gone
2. It is deep and painful
3. It is red
4. I can see pus at the top
5. It is draining
6. I have a date tonight

I am deep enough in the skin to cause scarring when I see?

1. Redness
2. Pus
3. Blood
4. Muscle
5. China
6. 4 or 5
7. 3, 4, or 5

What things should I not pick at?

1. Red bump filled with pus
2. Deep tender pimple that I feel but can’t see
3. Little white beads under the skin
4. Moles
5. The spot I have been picking at for 6 months
6. Growths
7. 2 and 4
8. 2, 4, 5, and 6

When should I pull the flaky crust off?

1. This instant
2. When I want it gone so my makeup will go on smoothly
3. When I can rip it off with tweezers and get good, fresh blood
4. When the edges are lifted but the center is still stuck down
5. When it completely lifts off by itself
6. Never

What is the best way to remove those little white beads under the skin?

1. Apply Retin-A 37 times over 24 hours
2. Squeeze them until they pop through the skin like “Aliens”
3. Scrape them off with a fingernail
4. Prick the top with a clean, sharp straight pen and squeeze gently.  Once
5. Do a reverse osmosis high colonic

 What are the possible complications from picking?

1. Scarring
2. Permanent pigmentation changes
3. Infection
4. Delaying treatment of a skin cancer
5. Continual harassment from my husband
6. All of the above

How do I know I am picking too much?

1. When I have to use medical makeup meant to cover birthmarks and severe burn scars
2. When I spot the Intervention production crew talking to my husband
3. I keep a 10x magnifying mirror and tweezers at my side 24/7/356
4. I keep picking when I know there no chance that it will help
5. When Dr. Elaine tells me so
6. All of the above

 When should I stop playing junior dermatologist and see a real one?

1. When I see scarring
2. When I see increased redness, pain, bleeding, or pigment
3. When it is not getting better within one week
4. For any brown, black, growing, bleeding, or tender growth or persistent sore
5. Any growth that I am not absolutely sure is not skin cancer
6. When I want the best result possible
7. All of the above

 

Answers: Give yourself one point for each correct answer

1. 3
2. 2
3. 4
4. 5
5. 6
6. 8
7. 5
8. 4
9. 6
10. 6
11. 7

Score

1-3     Surrender your magnifying mirror, tweezers, and surgical instruments

4-6     Return to Google Medical School

7-9     You may proceed, but you are on academic probation

10-11   Apprentice junior dermatologist–proceed

12      Grab your white coat and join me in clinic

Note: maximum score is 11

Next: Review of test answers

 

Do you have a license for that thing?

I was recently talking with a patient whose face had markedly improved since her last visit. When I asked her what had changed she said, “You were right, and I finally took your advice. That made all the difference.” Gratified that my clinical skills had once again been validated, I asked her which specific and wonderful piece of advice she had taken, since I give quite a bit of wonderful advice.

“I had my husband hide my magnifying mirror.”

So here we are at yet another of my pet peeves—magnifying mirrors.  Specifically, magnifying mirrors that are owned and operated by women who also own several pair of devilishly sharp tweezers, assorted safety and straight pins (cleaned with alcohol of course!), and their very own monogrammed comedome extractor  (pimple popper) complete  with loop on one end and scalpel  blade on the other.

Before my gentlemen readers get too smug, at least the women don’t tell me “I didn’t know what that growth on my arm was, but it was bugging me, so I just took out my pocket knife and cut it off. See this scab right here? What do you think it was doc? You don’t think it was something serious do you?” To which I answer “I don’t have a clue.”

When women have a magnifying mirror, at-home surgical instruments, and the stubbornness of a mule, bad things can happen.  

For instance:

• Eyebrow shape becomes very peculiar, with the eyebrow starting centrally too far apart over the pupil, and the natural arch obliterated.
• Milia, those small white balls under the surface of the skin that the nurses and I remove through tiny pricks in the skin with sterile instruments, are excavated through incisions in the skin that most doctors would close with stitches.
• Hair on the chin is plucked, in-grows, is dug out with tweezers and needle, tweezed, in-grows again.  The cycle is repeated until permanent brown and red pigmentation, and scarring occur. And then the hair, ingrown skin, red and brown discoloration, and scar are picked again. Repeat.
• Pimples are popped and picked at before they are ready. Even when the picker knows they are not ready. Because they are there, and they are gross.  So they must be picked, mustn’t they? Of course if one squeeze doesn’t remove the pimple and all signs of its existence, then 200 squeezes must be applied. Because that will make it disappear without a trace. By morning.
• Scabs, flakes of skin, acne pimples that are trying valiantly to heal, are picked off every morning because the dry flaky top looks unsightly with makeup accentuating it. Unfortunately, the trauma of picking at it causes the lesion to make more protective flakey skin and scab, to thicken and pigment. It is in effect saying “please stop so I can heal.” Usually no one listens, and the cycle can literally go on for years.

Sarcasm aside, I commonly see women (and I hate to be sexist, but it is almost exclusively women, unless meth is involved) who have caused permanent and unnecessary scars to themselves by picking.

Am I any better? No. As my husband once said to me “I think you went into dermatology just so you could pick legally.” Partially true.  But be that as it may, I am a licensed and trained professional who knows what the lesion is, how to remove it, how much I can destroy without a permanent scar, and when to stop. Even if I don’t always do it.

Magnifying mirrors should be available by prescription only.  Or at least any magnifying mirror over 3x power. If I can’t see a lesion on exam with my 3x power magnifying glasses, it is not there. Instead, be like my patients who have had cataract surgery, except in reverse. They say “I never had all of these spots on my face until I had cataract surgery.  It gave me spots. “I tell them, gently of course, “No you did, and I have seen them on your face for the last 10 years.  It is just after your cataract surgery, you can see them too.” If you are prevented from seeing it in your 10x magnifying mirror, it will magically disappear.

So step away from the magnifying mirror ma’am, before someone gets hurt.

Next: if you must pick, do it like a dermatologist. Even though my lawyer is sitting at my shoulder trying to shake some sense into me.

I always try to avoid a skin decision that will turn out badly.

And so should you–More skin decisions that are best avoided

6) Not doing the recommended patch test on the hair color box

I know, it seems stupid and you don’t want to waste time with it. You have used that brand/color before. And it is just hair color not poison. I used to think that way too.

But here is why you should do it. Paraphenylenediamine (PPD) is a chemical substance that is widely used as a permanent hair dye. PPD hair dyes usually come as 2 bottles, one containing the PPD dye and the other containing the oxidizer, and are most commonly seen in that beautiful blue-black color. Acute allergic contact dermatitis to PPD can cause severe swelling, redness, blistering, weeping, oozing, itching and pain of the entire scalp. Eyelids can swell shut. Patients who experience this unfortunate reaction are quite uncomfortable and also quite unsightly. And if they have also used it on the eyebrows, like a recent patient, the reaction extends over the face.

There are methods to try to neutralize the reaction by completing the oxidation of the PPD, and they may be of some help. But it is not uncommon for the reaction to persist for some time, until the hair grows out. Some patients even shave their heads to remove the treated hair.

And just because you have used it before, you are not safe from this reaction. Allergic contact reactions occur on the second or subsequent time that you are exposed to the chemical. It takes one exposure to sensitize you to the chemical, and then at some later exposure, you react. So it could be the second time you use it, or the hundredth. And it could even be the first time, if you have come into contact with PPD from one of its other non-hair related uses.

So if severe redness, swelling, blistering, weeping, oozing, itching of the scalp and eyelids is not the look you are going for, do the patch test.

7) Picking–and picking, and picking, and picking…..

Some people can see a pimple on their cheek, pop it once, and leave it alone. Some will dig a hole down through the muscle–really. There is a spectrum of picking from–don’t even see it and leave it alone–pick at it once–keep picking when you know it won’t help–pick at it every day because it is dry and flaky and makeup won’t go on right–pick at it several times a day and feel guilty about it–pick at it and keep the same spot going for months to years–dig a hole to China.

In my experience, women are 99.95% of the pickers. I am one, that’s why I went into dermatology, so I could do it legally.

No comments from men, please. In my experience, 99.95% of the patients who say “I just took out my pocket knife and tried to cut it off, and then it started bleeding and got infected” are men.

Here is a secret–If you keep picking at it, it will never heal and may very well scar.

8) Not knowing when to stop with plastic surgery

Natural, subtle, expertly performed plastic surgery is great. Unnatural, obviously operated upon, poorly performed plastic surgery is not. And one of the problems with going too far with plastic surgery, is that just like some other decisions in life, it can be really hard to undo the effects.

There are many reasons that people just keep going with plastic surgery, having procedure after procedure and not stopping when most others are happy with much less. It may be an attempt to fix something else like a failing marriage, Body Dysmorphic Disorder (BDD), an attempt to fix previous unsatisfactory surgical results, unrealistic expectations, peer group norms, or just that they have forgotten what they really look like. And there are plastic surgeons who don’t discourage this, although the good ones will tell you–stop.

The problem is that patients who have had too much plastic surgery look less attractive, not more. Everything looks unnatural and alien-like. Stop before you reach this stage and start looking like poor Michael Jackson.

9) Letting a poorly trained individual do something like pour acid on your face

We are seeing more and more of this kind of problem, patients coming in with complications after a medical treatment by non-medical, poorly trained, or poorly supervised individuals. Things that change your skin, change your skin. And they can change it for the better, or for worse. These cosmetic treatments are specialized medical procedures. Medical procedures need to be done by well trained medical professionals. These treatments seem easy, and when done right, usually go well. But they can, and do, go wrong. A big part of cosmetic dermatology practice is knowing and preventing the risks, by knowing what not to do, and especially knowing who is at increased risk of complications. And you better know what to do about any complications, and do it in a timely fashion.

I have been told–it was cheaper, she is my friend, I won the raffle (hint–everyone wins), they were practicing (practicing??? on your face???) and on and on.

Be a responsible consumer and patient, do your research before you commit to having a procedure. Your face and body deserve at least as much research as a flat screen TV. Maybe even more.

10) Ordering fillers, Botox or chemical peels off the internet and doing them at home

When I first heard about this, I thought it must be a joke. But yes, people actually order compounds of unknown composition, unknown sterility, unknown reactions off the internet and take a needle and syringe, and try to figure out where, how, how much to inject and stick it in their face. Many times these are either counterfeit or a non-tested “special brand”.

And these people vehemently argue that it is their right to order the most potent toxin known to mankind, one that is being counterfeited and sold by terrorist groups, off of the internet and inject themselves, because the “greedy doctors charge too much”. Because the internet is a completely trustworthy, ethical and safe system, worldwide. We are the world.

I have just two words–Darwin Award

 

Top 10 Aesthetic Body Sculpting Procedure Tips:
What works, what doesn’t for fat reduction and fat removal

1. Research the various procedures, their risks, benefits, results. A site I particularly like, and contribute to, is RealSelf.com. It has descriptions of the procedures, reviews by patients, satisfaction ratings, and answers to questions by physicians who are Board Certified in the core aesthetic specialties of Plastic Surgery and Dermatology.

 

2. Decide what kind of results you want, what kind of risks you are willing to take, which side effects you are willing to have and how much you are willing to pay for it.

 

3. Be very careful with physicians who are not Board Certified in the core aesthetic specialties, who have had sanctions by the Medical Board for standard of care issues, who charge significantly below the prevailing rate, or who perform non-FDA approved treatments like Mesotherapy.

 

4. If you decide to have Liposuction, go to a physician trained and Board Certified by the American Board of Medical Specialties (not any other board) in one of the core aesthetic specialties, who has a lot of experience in Liposuction, and performs it frequently.

 

5. For Liposuction don’t have procedures except in accredited facilities. Run from a physician who exceeds the official guidelines for the volume of fat removed in a single procedure. These situations are the riskiest and where the deaths from Liposuction that make the news often occur.

 

6. Do I need to say this?– Don’t have non-FDA approved treatments. Don’t have medical or surgical procedures performed by non-physicians, unless those providers are licensed medical providers like RN’s and are directly supervised by a physician who is Board Certified in one of the core aesthetic specialties. No, not a beautician practicing out of a hotel room, not a nurse who is practicing solo without supervision, not a non-medical layperson given 1 hour of training in a chain medi-spa.

 

7. Don’t expect more from a procedure than the procedure can deliver. Don’t expect Liposuction results from non-invasive procedures. Don’t expect any fat reduction or fat removal procedure to remove visceral fat (fat inside the abdominal cavity). If you can’t squeeze it, we can’t remove it. Only diet and exercise can reduce visceral fat. Expect what the procedure can realistically deliver and be happy with that.

 

8. Don’t lie to your physician about smoking, medications or your health history, just because you really, really want the procedure. This ends badly.

 

9. Don’t expect any of these procedures to significantly tighten skin and muscle like a tummy tuck, or improve cellulite. Tummy tuck results require cutting skin and sewing skin and muscle. Nothing gives permanent improvement in cellulite. Sometimes Liposuction makes cellulite worse.

 

10. Final tip: Here are the patient satisfaction ratings for the various procedures, found on RealSelf.com. Real patients who have had the procedure thought that the procedures were “worth it” in these percentages:

   FDA approved procedures

• Zeltiq Coolsculpting (84% worth it)
• Liposuction(65% worth it)
• Zerona (32% worth it)

    Non-FDA approved procedures (Quiz: What did I just say about non-FDA approved procedures?)

• Ultrashape (32% worth it)
• Mesotherapy (Lipodissolve) (32% worth it)

So that is it for aesthetic body sculpting procedures to reduce or remove fat.

Next: I haven’t decided. Stay tuned.

The fine print about skin tightening procedures–risks, complications, side effects, poor cosmetic results, and other unpleasantness

If you are thinking about getting one or more procedures for skin tightening, you will want to know about the risk, side effects, and how happy you will be with the results. The problems that occur with all skin tightening procedures generally fall into one of three categories:

• Risk of medical or surgical complications that are a risk to your health or the integrity of your tissues
• Risk that the procedure performed is not the procedure that you really want or need–either too much, too little or the wrong procedure to address your problem
• Risk that the results will be either unnatural looking or obviously operated upon

My lawyer is again reminding me to remind you that you should not rely upon the following discussion of risks as a basis to decide whether or not to have a procedure. If I am not your doctor, I am not your doctor. Rely upon what your doctor tells you.

Risk of complications that are a risk to your health or the integrity of your tissues

All of the surgical procedures have similar sets of risks, although the likelihood that they will occur vary among the procedures, with the skill of the surgeon, and the patient’s individual medical condition. Differentiation has to be made between events that are expected and occur in most, if not all patients, such as swelling and bruising, and complications that only occur in some and can cause permanent damage. Skin tightening surgical procedure risks include excessive bleeding, infection, nerve damage, tissue death, scarring, swelling, and the risks of general anesthesia, if needed.   Bleeding after surgery can be a problem when the blood collection prevents healing or puts pressure on other structures. Infection can cause damage to the tissue. Nerve damage can cause loss of sensation or muscle movement. Death of tissue at the edges of the area that has been lifted in a facelift can cause significant scarring. Scarring can be unsightly or actually affect function, as when eyelids don’t close properly because of scarring and chronic drying then damages the surface of the eyeball.  Additionally eyelid lifts have a risk of loss of vision (luckily extremely rare), changes in vision, double vision, excess or inadequate tearing.

Fortunately, serious, lasting complications from surgical skin tightening procedures are uncommon. But as with all the risks that your physician discusses with you, they do sometimes occur. Otherwise they wouldn’t be talking to you about them. Each of the surgical procedures has its own relative risk of each complication that is specific to that procedure, based on the extent of surgery performed and the characteristics of the tissue that is located on the surgical field. For example, facelift surgery has the greatest risk of “flap necrosis” or death of skin at the edges of the “flap” that is moved because the area of tissue that must be separated from the underlying blood supply is the greatest. Eyelid surgery affects structures surrounding the eyeball, so the risk of damage to the eye, though very low, is specific to that particular surgical procedure.

The non-surgical procedures risks in general are less severe, reflecting the less invasive nature of the procedures. But, they do occur. Radiofrequency tissue tightening with Thermage risks include very rare risk of burns, surface irregularities or fat atrophy which are reported with current technology and current treatment protocols as less than 2 cases per 10,000 patients treated. Liquid lift with skin filling injections may cause bruising or swelling lasting for up to a few weeks. Bumps under the skin may occur and are occasionally visible. Rarely compression of a blood vessel may occur, which if not successfully treated, can cause damage to the tissue from lack of blood flow. Very rarely, a long lasting infection can occur.

Risk that the procedure performed is not the procedure that you really want or need–either too much, too little or the wrong procedure to address your problem

It is not unusual for a patient to request one procedure when another is indicated. A patient may request an eyelid lift, when the real need is for a brow lift, since a sagging brow doesn’t hold the eyelid up well, so it sags.  Another may request Thermage treatment, when their real need is for a face lift. Plastic surgeons and cosmetic dermatologists are trained to evaluate the real nature of the problem and to suggest the proper procedure to address it. Problems occur when the physician does not accurately evaluate the problem, and/or performs the wrong procedure. That is why formal training, experience, judgment, an artistic eye, and our old friend the Hippocratic oath are important.

Risk that the results will be either unnatural looking or obviously operated upon

Many patients worry more about having a bad cosmetic result than they do about the risk of serious complications from skin tightening. We have all seen results that are unfortunate. Sometimes they are very obviously bad, and sometimes it just doesn’t look right. Too tight, too unnatural, too “done”.

Bad results after surgical procedures include the dreaded “wind tunnel” pulled too tight/too much look. Often this is the result of a surgical face lift, brow lift or eyelid lift that has either removed too much skin or fat, or has pulled skin tight over a face that has very little fat to provide normal contour. Too tight face lifts often leave a “skeletonized” appearance to the face. Too tight brow lifts can raise the eyebrows unnaturally. Eyelid lifts that remove too much fat give a hollowing around the eyes.  Facelifts and brow lifts may cause changes in the hairline shape or localized hair loss. Scars may be visible, thick or distort the shape of the surrounding structures. Shape of the structures may change. This is often noticed as a change in the attachment of the ear to the side of the neck, so called “pixie ear”, after a facelift, or rounding of the normal almond shape of the eye after an eyelid lift. Skin may be pulled in an unnatural direction, such as the “sweep” of the cheek looseness that may change from the pre-surgical downward jowls to a horizontal pouch.  Asymmetry may occur, either as accentuation of pre-existing asymmetry or as a new problem, with one side tighter, higher, flatter or more prominent than the other side.

Poor cosmetic results, as abnormal or too tight appearance after non-surgical radiofrequency treatments have not been reported. Surface irregularity, though very rare, is aesthetically unpleasing. Lack of sufficient improvement in skin tightening may give inadequate cosmetic improvement.  Filler treatment may be either too much or too little. Inadequate filler volume gives inadequate results. Excessive filler volume gives an unnatural, bloated appearance. Shape of structures may be changed, most commonly seen in the “trout pout” of some patients after lip injections. Lumps, bumps, puffiness or visibility of the filler through the skin may occur.

Oh my, such unpleasantness. Fortunately, a good cosmetic outcome without complications is common when the physician is trained and skilled, and the patient does their part. So we better discuss that next.

Next: Top 10 aesthetic skin tightening procedure tips

The fine print about skin resurfacing–risks, side effects, and other unpleasant things

So here is the fine print on risks and side effects of the skin resurfacing procedures we talked about. The risks and side effects are similar with all resurfacing procedures: infection, scarring, pigment problems and redness. This differs from the expected post treatment course such as crusting, flaking etc that we discussed previously, because the risks and side effects are things that, thankfully, don’t usually happen, and ones we don’t want to happen.  The incidence and severity of these reactions vary among with the procedure, with the patient, and with the physician.

Infection: Infection risk can be viral, bacterial or yeast. Viral risk is from the cold sore virus with a post procedure outbreak occurring in someone with a history of frequent cold sores. The virus can then spread into the treated area causing scarring. It can occur with any of the procedures but is more common after the more aggressive procedures. Anyone with a history of cold sore infections should receive preventative treatment with Valtrex. Bacterial infection can occur after picking with any of the procedures. Without picking it is very rare in the less aggressive procedures, more common but still unusual in the more aggressive procedures. Fungal infection, usually with Candida yeast only occurs after the more aggressive procedures.

Scarring: Can occur with any of the procedures, but in the absence of picking, or infection, should not occur in the less aggressive procedures. Much more common after deep chemical peels and traditional dermabrasion.

Pigment problems: Patients with any degree of natural pigment are at increased risk for permanent pigment change, usually darker but sometimes lighter skin, after all resurfacing procedures. The risk rises rather steeply as you move from the less aggressive to more aggressive procedures. At risk skin types include: Hispanic, Asian, American Indian, Middle Eastern, East Indian, Black, including those with these skin types in their genetic makeup several generations back. Caucasians who tan easily and those who get sun exposure are also at risk.  Careful patient selection, not treating irritated skin and reducing post treatment sun exposure are important.

So here are my assessments of the degree of risk for each procedure:

Light Chemical Peels

• Infection: Occasional viral infection if not pretreated.
• Scarring: Very rare unless picking.
• Pigment problems: Uncommon if proper patient selection and patient follows sun exposure precautions. More common if they don’t.

SilkPeel (medical microdermabrasion)

• Infection: Very rare viral infection, unless pretreated.
• Scarring: Very rare
• Pigment problems: Rare

Deep Chemical Peels

• Infection: Moderately common, less if pretreated
• Scarring: Moderately common
• Pigment problems: Uncommon if very fair skin, moderately common if darker skin

Traditional Dermabrasion

• Infection: Moderately common
• Scarring: Common
• Pigment problems: Uncommon if very fair skin, moderately common if darker skin

Non-Ablative Fractional (Fraxel re:store)  Laser Resurfacing

• Infection: Uncommon viral infection, unless pretreated. Very rare bacterial or fungal
• Scarring: Uncommon
• Pigment problems: Uncommon if fair skin, moderately common if darker skin

Ablative Fractional CO2 (Fraxel re:pair and others) Laser Resurfacing

• Infection: Uncommon viral infection, unless pretreated. Rare bacterial or fungal
• Scarring: Relatively uncommon on the face, occasional on neck, chest, arms
• Pigment problems: Uncommon if fair skin, moderately common if darker skin

Who are the highest risk patients?: Patients with a fair amount of natural pigment (darker skin types, or those with darker skin types in their genetic background), smokers, pickers, thin skin, those with tendency to form scars, those with undisclosed recurrent cold sores, and those who don’t take the sun precautions seriously.
Disclose all medical information, follow instructions–what a concept

Who are the highest risk physicians?: Physicians without an in depth, formal training in the skin in health and disease, those who aren’t willing to not treat inappropriate patients because of a profit motive, those who aren’t willing to take the time to be sure the patient understands and follows instructions.
Training, experience and ethical standards–what a concept

What are the highest risk procedures?: From highest to lowest–Traditional dermabrasion and deep chemical peels, then fractional ablative laser resurfacing, fractional non-ablative laser resurfacing, light chemical peels, SilkPeel.
Deep chemical peels, and traditional dermabrasion are the most risky procedures. If you are going to proceed with these, be sure the physician is trained, experienced and does a lot of them.

Remember, these are my opinions and what I tell my patients. Your doctor may feel differently. Don’t make your decision regarding procedures on what I tell you, unless you are my patient. Make your decision based on what your doctor tells you.

Next: Aesthetic skin resurfacing tips

I was recently asked about a woman using Retin-A® who had gone for waxing of her eyebrows 3 days before her wedding and ended up with 1 inch rectangular strips of skin peeled off above and below her eyebrows.

Oh boy–not a good wedding look.

She had not been asked by the nail tech who was doing the waxing about the use of treatments or skin care that might affect her results. If you use a retinoid (Refissa®, Renova®, Retin-A®, Differin® or Tazorac® ), any acne treatment product either over the counter or by prescription, Glycolic Acid, Salicylic Acid, Lactic Acid, Multi-Fruit Acid (or any acid) Vitamin C, or Retinol you should discontinue them to the area to be treated before waxing, bleaching, skin peels,  microdermabrasion, electrolysis,  hair removal, vein treatment, acne surgery, or facials.

Your aesthetician, nurse or physician should ask about use of these products and tell you to discontinue them before treatment, but to be sure, tell them upfront.  If you are having procedures, even a waxing, be sure that the person performing them is trained properly because even minor treatments can have complications.

And don’t do them 3 days before your wedding.